Another Pencil Skirt & Wool & Stripes

Pencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

skirt: Ultimate Pencil Skirt pattern by Sew Over It
blouse: Pussy Bow Blouse pattern by Sew Over It
shoes: Ā s.Oliver

Hi my lovelies! As promised, here’s another version of the Sew Over It pencil skirt I’ve made a couple of weeks ago – this time in a woven wool fabric.

I won’t say much more about the pattern, I go on and on about it in this post already. The only thing I’ll say (again) is: It’s awesome! Try it! There’s a fabulous kit to buy including some great tartan fabric, and for those who just want to get their hands on the pattern – you can now also get it as a PDF pattern! For me, this skirt is a wardrobe staple and must-have. It’s just so easy to fit and very flattering. I’m sure to make a couple more versions of this number.

Pencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comPencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comPencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comThis second time, I used a woven fabric (I used a ponte knit last time). It’s a lovely light-weight and very soft wool with a slightly brushed look. The pinstripes suggestĀ it’s meant for suits, but who cares! I bought it on my last trip to Germany. OneĀ of the major department stores in Germany, Karstadt, has a haberdashery (fabric, notions & wool) on their top floor. You can find it in every Karstadt. So if you ever end up looking for fabric when in Germany and you can’t find any fabric stores, you’ll surely find some fabric in Karstadt. I don’t particularly love their selection, and prices also aren’t the best, but their remnants baskets are quite cool. The wool was only 6€/m which wasn’t too bad and I knew I wouldn’t need more than a metre for this skirt anyway.

Pencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comPencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

It was great to with. It frayed only a tiny bit and I finished all the edges with my overlocker.
The pattern doesn’t include a lining, but I’m thinking about adding one to the next skirt and maybe even sewing one into this one. The wool is quite lightweight and although it doesn’t ride up when walking, it would probably look better when lined (and also be more comfortable to wear).

I really love skirts at the moment and have made quite a few lately. I really need to get back to sewing blouses! Any pattern recommendations?

Pencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Pencil Skirt Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Don’t forget to enter the giveaway! I’ve got two tickets for the Country Living Magazine Spring Fair (with lots of crafts and workshops!) to give away!CountryLivingSpring2015_03

 


Happy sewing!
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Refashion it! A leather mini skirt

Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hallo meine Lieben! I haven’t blogged a refashion project in a while, so this was long overdue! (If I remember correctly, my initial plan was to blog a refashion once a week. This worked out beautifully, right? Haha.)

When I lost my sewing mojo a couple of weeks ago, refashioning a couple of skirts I bought ages ago really helped to get back behind the sewing machine. These fun little projects don’t take much time, just a little creativity and therefore don’t seem as overwhelming as making a complete garment. So, if you haven’t made anything in a while, I really recommend popping to your next charity shop and getting creative with whatever you find there!

Skirts are the easiest thing to fit and recycle I have found. Just changing the length can have a big impact and improve the whole look.Ā Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comHere’s a view before photos:Ā Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I’m not sure about the whole midi leather skirt look, at least this one wasn’t working for me! The skirt is vintage, from an old lady that was friends with my mum. My mum gave it too me because she didn’t know what to do with it. It also had a broken zip:Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I was really lucky that the skirt fit me perfectly around the waist and hips, so I didn’t have to make too many alterations. I simply shortened the hem and lining, eliminating the kick pleat and a good 30 cm of length.Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I’m in love with the seam lines on the skirt and how they run parallel to the pockets. Yes, it has got pockets!Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.comMini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I never had a leather garment before (except for an 80’s jacket!) and I’m surprised how comfortable it is to wear! I thought it might be really hard to walk and sit in, but it’s as comfy as any other skirt would be.

Oh, and what became of the broken zip? The zip was still working fine, just the pull tab had broken off. I couldn’t be bother to replace the whole thing, so I just added a little silver ring with a scissors charm instead. I love the little sewing-related detail – and it works perfectly. I might use this trick on other zips in the future!
Mini Leather Skirt Refashion by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I recently refashioned two other (more office-style) skirts which I love and wear constantly. Hopefully I get around to taking some photos soon!

Have you recently refashioned something?


Happy sewing!
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Sewing for my man

hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comHi my darlings, guess what happened? After all those years of selfish sewing I have finally made something for my man. It had been on my to-sew list pretty much every year, and last year I even went as far as making a muslin for a men’s shirt. The Mr doesn’t really wear shirts, so as you can imagine this project didn’t go very far. (I have to say though, I finished a shirt for my dad in December – not blogged – so I could tick “men’s shirt” of last year’s resolutions list).hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comA friend of mine made her boyfriend this pretty awesome hooded cardi and I promised the Mr to make him one as well.

The pattern is self-drafted by my friend who is a seamstress by trade. She traced it off for me and the Mr even carried it in his suitcase all the way from Germany to London – that’s dedication! Obviously, I couldn’t postpone it much longer and finally ordered some fabric and a zip, the latter being ridiculously expensive!

The Pattern: Is self-drafted, EUR size 48. It has raglan sleeves and an extra side panel just underneath the armhole which makes the cardi just a tad more fitted, which I think looks great, especially men’s patterns this size can sometime just look huge. I lengthened all bodice and the sleeve pattern pieces by 5cm (the Mr always has troubles with sleeves being way too short). I did not bother cutting any facings and now am really glad that I didn’t. My sewing machine struggled quite a bit with 3-4 layers of this heavy sweatshirt fabric, any more would’ve killed my little machine, I guess.hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe fabric:
The sweatshirt fabric I ordered online (I think it was Minerva Crafts) and I used less than 2m for this cardi. I also bought the zip (75cm) online, which was really expensive. But it’s a metal one and works really great. I’m glad that I got it in the end, it adds a great feature to the jacket.

hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe sleeve cuffs and the “waistband” are made of the same fabric as the rest of the cardi. I had trouble finding matching ribbing fabric, and the one I ordered did not work at all. I just used the same fabric in the end, cutting the strips much shorter than the actual hem width and it worked really well! I sewed them in with the overlocker, stretching the fabric evenly while sewing and they went in without any puckering and cinch in the hems quite beautifully.hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comAnother great detail of the pattern is the hood. It had really interesting seaming details – the hood consists of three different pattern pieces. All the seams on the bodice match up exactly with the seams on the hood giving it a really great shape and sporty look. I lined the hood, under-stitched the lining and top-stitched it with my 4mm stretch twin needle (approx. 2cm from the edge). I used the same technique on the pockets.hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Mr loves his music, so I had to add tiny buttonholes to the back of the pockets where the audio jack can go through when the phone is in the pocket to avoid the cable dangling on the outside of the cardigan.

The only thing where I messed up a bit it the seam matching on the pockets. They are almost off by 5mm which is quite annoying. That happened when I sewed the zip in. All other seams match up perfectly, only the most visible ones don’t. Meh. At least you can’t see it, when the zip is open :)hooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.comhooded cardigan men by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Mr is super duper happy with his new cardigan and wears it pretty much every day. I am planning to make a hooded sweater from the same pattern and already have super soft dark brown fabric waiting in my stash. Unfortunately I broke my stretch twin needle, so it will have to wait a bit. (And we don’t want the Mr to get used to all this selfless sewing, right?)

Have you ever made anything for your other half? It’s quite rewarding, me thinks. And finally, I wasn’t the one in front of the camera – much more comfortable, ha!


Happy sewing!
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Little Black Dress and Comfy Cardi

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comHello lovelies! Guess what? I’ve got a new favourite outfit (again).

I have to admit, not much planning went into this. The cardi was on the bottom of a to-do-list in the back of my head, for when I would run out of ideas (ha!) and the idea for the dress was born in the second I sawĀ that fabric. Buying the fabric, making a sketch and a pattern and sewing the dress all happened on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Although I have millions of projects on my to-sew list I always end up with these spontaneous projects! Most often these end up to be my favourite garments, though.
LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comTHE CARDIGAN

The Fabric:Ā Those of you who have been following this blog for a while (and have an incredible memory) might recognise this fabric. It’s a really stretchy, loose wool knit. I got it from Minerva Crafts and initially wanted to use it for a Donna Karan Vogue Pattern, which never happened. Instead, I made this super cosy cowl dress. The Burda Cowl Neck dress pattern didn’t require as much fabric as the Vogue dress, so I had plenty left. I always had a cardigan in mind for it but couldn’t find a pattern I liked. As a knit fabric, it didn’t really fray much, but I overlocked all edges anyway.

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comI hemmed the sleeve by simply overlocking the raw edge, turning it in and top-stitching it in place with a narrow zig-zag stitch.Ā All the other edges – bottom hem, neckline and front – are one continuous line I wanted to bias bind initially. Mid-way through the project I remembered that I had bought lots of stringed sequins a while ago. So instead of bias binding, I finished the edge with my overlocker, not turning it in. I sewed the sequins in place along the stitching of the overlocker.

I really like the finish as it adds to the lightness of the slightly sheer fabric. Also, no oneĀ minds some extra bling, right?
LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern:Ā The cardi pattern is completely self-drafted – with a cardigan in mind that my sister bought when she last visited me in London (I think she got it fromĀ Primark). I took some rough measurements in order to recreate it at some point. I found the sketch a little while ago and thought of it when I was looking for a quick and easy project last week. The drafting didn’t take too long. With the very loose fit I was going for the measurements didn’t Ā have to be exact. The fabric was cut out quickly and the actual sewing did not take much longer. Applying the sequins probably took as long as the whole drafting and sewing process together. I didn’t mind – given that I have the time for it, I find hand-sewing so relaxing!

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comTHE DRESS

The Fabric:Ā Now let’s talk about the dress! As far as I can remember, it’s the first LBD I made and it’s very likely that many others will follow! The day I spotted this fab jumbo ribbed jersey, I initially wanted to buy some zips from my local fabric store. I never really buy fabric there, it’s a really dodgy shop that mostly sells waxed table cloth stuff and trims. I spotted the fabric and a vision of this dress came to mind immediately. It was 60 inch wide and only Ā£1.50/m. I bought 2m and started planning as soon as I came home.

The sleeves and waistband are from a recycled cardigan which I got from my mum-in-law. It’s quite a heavy knit. Looking at the label it must have been from some sort of boutique and appeared to be really good quality – even after all those times in the washing machine the fabric looks as good as new. The sleeves were big enough that I could squeeze both sleeves and waistband out of them. I kept the hem, which was really convenient and made the sewing process so much quicker!

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern:Ā It’s a proper Franken-Dress – the pattern is part Lady Skater (Kitschy Coo), part Ultimate Pencil Skirt (Sew Over It) and part self-drafted.

I started of with the Lady Skater bodice, which is a TNT for me when it comes to dress patterns for knit fabrics. I lowered the neckline to a boat neck shape. These is no need for a shoulder seam on this one! Sewing front and back onto the sleeves was a bit tricky as the corners had to match up exactly at the shoulder mark on the sleeves, but it worked out fantastically.The sleeve pattern is from the Ā Lady Skater, as well.LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe skirt pattern is based on my beloved Ultimate Pencil Skirt. I lowered the high waist down to my natural waist and then had to do a lot of thinking in order to get the waistband right. I shortened the bodice quite a bit and added a 5cm wide waistband between bodice and skirt. Instead of going with the darts from the original skirt pattern, I turned them into pleats to give the skirt a bit more volume. I know this is a bit risky, especially when you normally don’t want to attract too much attention to this area, but I put all my trust in the Elisalex once and it worked out fabulously, so I tried it again. I really like the shape and don’t think that it makes me look much bigger than I am!LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comAll raw edges were finished using my overlocker. When using Jersey I sometimes sew all seams with the overlocker straight away because it is so much faster than my old little sewing machine. Because the dress’ fit is quite snug I thought some extra strong seams were quite a good idea and sewed all seams using a narrow zig-zag stitch before running the raw edges through the overlocker. Also, I needed to do quite a bit of matching with the sleeves and also with the pleats, which is so much easier on my regular machine.LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe facing is also cut out from the recycled cardi and interfaced with black iron-on interfacing.The facing is quite wide and attached to neckline and armhole seams, so the bodice is almost half-lined. It makes the facing lie really flat so that it’s practically invisible.

The skirt hem is turned under once and hand-stitched in place.

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I really really love both dress and cardi and love wearing both together. They’re both super comfy and warm which is the perfect combination right now! I have quite a bit of the jumbo ribbed jersey left and am planning a kimono sleeve cropped sweater – let’s see how that goes!


Happy sewing!
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A Cosy Lola Dress

Lola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comHeeelloo lovelies!

I’m in a pretty good mood today not only because the sun’s shining and it’s my day off (hooray!) but I think I finally have my sewing mojo back. Phew. I was getting worried!
Since before Christmas I haven’t really sewn much and that wasn’t because I was lacking ideas (there will always be way too many in my head) but, to be honest, pretty much due to the fact that I just didn’t feel like sewing. Instead I read a lot and started sketching again. I haven’t done either in a while and normally I only read during break times at work or on the train. Curling up on the couch with a good book and a cup of coffee on Ā a rainy day is awesome!

I used to do that all the time, but since I took up sewing I always feel I need to be productive, which sometimes can be quite annoying. I can imagine that many sewists feel that way. After a really busy time at work I just needed to do nothing, which I did. I even put the sewing machine AWAY which never ever really happens.

Usually I would feel really bad about not sewing or blogging or at least photographing my makes, but this time I finally realised that I don’t have to. I sew because I love to sew, so why should I force myself to keep going if I don’t feel like it. And I also stopped worrying that I wouldn’t get my mojo back a long time ago. Making my own clothes has become a major part in my life which won’t go away just from taking a little break.

Lola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comSooo anyway, the sewing machine is sitting on our living room table again, there are threads and fabric scraps scattered all across the floor and sewing magazines are taking over the couch. Everything is back to normal!

Ok, ok, I will stop rambling now and start talking about the dress.

The Pattern:

The pattern is the Lola Dress by Victory Patterns. I bought it last summer during a little festival in our local park from the lovely ladies of the Village Haberdashery who had a little stall there. I just really liked how comfy and casual this dress looked – not the typical ‘fit-and-flare’ sewing pattern. It’s modern, it’s quite sporty and it looks like something you could buy on the high street.

source: victorypatterns.com

The pattern suggested using 1.5 metres of fabric for making the dress, which I have to say is way more than you will need. My fabric was 60in wide and I used just about a metre to make this dress without any alterations to the pattern. FYI, I made up a size 6 (this must be US sizing?) and graded up to a size 8/10 around the hips. I had enough fabric left to make a longsleeved sweater, which I blogged a few weeks ago.

The only tiny alterations I made to the original pattern was omitting the ‘V’ detail in the front and the top-stitching on the pockets. I don’t normally wear sporty clothes, so the ‘V’ was definitely too much for my taste! I feel like leaving it out makes the dress a little bit more classy.

Lola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comLola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Fabric:

I already wrote about the fabric when I blogged the cropped sweater, you can read about it here. It’s a really lovely navy sweatshirt fabric, fleece-backed and all. I used matching ribbing for the hem, sleeves and neckband. It didn’t press too well and is quite bulky, which is why the seams where I attached the ribbing are not as flat as I would like them to be, I have to figure that out somehow. Any ideas?Lola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comLola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Fit:

I generally like the fit of the dress – it’s insanely warm and comfy and the best thing to wear at work on a really cold day. I’m in Ā love with these massive pockets. I’m not quite happy with the sizing of the pattern; I normally wouldn’t be a size 6 ( I guess it’s US sizing), but the sizing chart suggested that I was. The finished dress fits alright around the bust area but the sleeves and shoulders are a tad too tight. So the bodice fits me like a normal UK 8 or 10 but the sleeves are definitely much much smaller than that. I normally don’t have an issue with sleeves, so I guess it really just is the pattern. Something that I can easily adjust next time I make it, but this also means I have to trace it again, meh.Lola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.comLola Dress Victory Patterns by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Will I make it again?

Probably. Maybe not exactly the same version but a variation of some sort. I have to trace it again to adjust the sleeve sizing, which is a little annoying so I might wait a little before I give it another go. I really liked the princess seams and the high waistline that drops in the back, so maybe I will copy this detail and change the rest a bit.


Happy sewing!
♄

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