High-waisted Ultimate Trousers

August 28, 2016.Reading time 5 minutes.

high-waisted Ultimate Trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com (Click through for more pics and info)

ROCKS AND ANCHORS

I’ve been looking forward to sharing these pics with you since we got back from holiday. We took them on our last night in Sardinia at the beach of our hotel where we pretty much spent most of our time. Compared to the previous post (we took the pics on the second day of our trip) I got quite a tan in just a week! I hadn’t been to South Europe in a couple of years and after living in England I forgot how easily I tan.

I love these trousers! You know I’m a big fan of Sew Over It’s wardrobe staple patterns such as the Ultimate Pencil Skirt or the Ultimate Trousers. As much as I love the trousers and their fit, I always had issues with how low they sat. Without a waistband (the orignal pattern has a facing) they get stretched out quite easily and sit very low which isn’t very practical at work, as I sometimes play with kids on the floor and don’t want my backside to hang out.

I had plans to raise the waist and add a waistband after seeing Lisa’s numerous, beautiful versions of high-waisted Ultimate Trousers. I found the perfect fabric, a stretch-denim with an anchor print just before the holiday in a fabric shop near Munich. I made up a muslin ad raised the waist by 10cm which turned out alright, but I lowered the waistline a few centimetres again as it was a tad too high. I love the look with this pair, but I might lower it just a tiny bit more for the next pair, which I plan to make from a very busy print.

high-waisted Ultimate Trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I really dig the raised waist hack of this pattern, it’s just so different from most RTW styles out there. The only downside is that it’s not the most figure flattering style – I’m certainly not a size zero but also not very big, but still you can see every lump and bump, especially with the tshirt tugged in. So after a week of feasting on Italian food pretty much non-stop, it wasn’t the most comfortable outfit to wear! But I loved it anyway – and who cares about a pizza-and-pasta-bump. It was absolutely worth it.

Oh, and I have to mention the hat – just because it’s fabulous! Especially since it’ll make another appearance in the next post as well. I’m so in love with this hat I can’t tell you. I always wanted one just like it, but never cared to buy one, because you don’t simply strut around with a hat like that unless you’re Audrey Hepburn. Right before our trip I went shopping for sunglasses and came across this hat at C&A (large German department store) and thinking of lying at the beach, sipping cocktails and nibbling olives I had a massive urge to just grab it, pay whatever they asked for (which luckily wasn’t much) and run with it. Which I did. I wore it every day on holiday, which makes up for the next few months where it will sit on my closet un-used, because – let’s be realistic – I won’t be wearing it unless I’m sitting on a beach in Italy somewhere. So that’s my excuse for that many cheesy sunhat pictures. high-waisted Ultimate Trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

high-waisted Ultimate Trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

So what’s your favourite wardrobe staple pattern that you love to hack over and over again?

Charlie

Happy sewing!
♥

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Leather Baby Mocassins & Dalton Trousers

August 15, 2015.Reading time 3 minutes.

leather baby mocassins bythisblogisnotforyou.com

Hi lovelies!

I haven’t sewn a lot lately, being still in post-move (and now almost pre-move) mode but I’ve finally managed to photograph some makes I made almost 2-3 months ago! Anyone else knows these problems?

Well, anyway, I wanted to share one of these makes, a more recent one, that I made without using my sewing machine sitting in my parents’ garden.

My little 1-year-old niece was staying with us and about to start walking by herself. To help with walking attempts we thought about making her some soft, non-slippery shoes. They turned out really nice and she actually loves them! Now, two weeks later, she is walking by herself and even brings mummy her mocassins in the morning for her to put them on. leather baby mocassins bythisblogisnotforyou.com

The Pattern:

It took a while to find a pattern that was simple but not too plain. Eventually we settled for fringed mocassins, the pattern was free and the website includes helpful step-by-step instructions with pictures. You find the download link in the first paragraph of the tutorial.

I cut out one shoe and glued it together using special leather/bookbindung glue. It turned out way too small, so I altered the pattern a bit by adding a bit more seam allowance (using a well-fitting sandal as reference).

leather baby mocassins bythisblogisnotforyou.com Construction:

The mocassins came together quite easily; the pattern really is straight-forward. It did not have my machine with me and from experience, sewing leather on my machine isn’t fun at all.

The shoes are small and fiddly anyway so I thought handsewing would be best. I really enjoy it anyway, although it’s a bit of a different story with leather.

I used a wooden block, a nail and hammer to make tiny holes along the stitching line which didn’t take too long and really made the whole handsewing process much, much easier.

I added a tiny bit of embellishment by using the hammer and nail to punch some tiny dots into the front fringe, which I think looks quite lovely. leather baby mocassins bythisblogisnotforyou.com

The little munchkin loves her new mocassins (worn here with her pair of Dalton trousers) which makes up for all blisters and sore fingers! I made two pairs of Dalton trousers, which is a lovely pattern from La Maison Victor magazine. I took 30 mins to make each one and they look too cute!

La Maison Victor Dalton Traousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com Recognised the fabric from my Hepburn Dress?

They are made from cotton and jersey. The trousers consist of just three pattern pieces plus the jersey waistband and cuffs. They look super comfortable!

leather baby mocassins by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I always find it super rewarding to sew for others! If I had more time and money, I might even do it more regularly! 😀

Charlie

Happy sewing!
♥

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Ultimate Trousers #2 – Floral Vintage Fabric

July 3, 2015.Reading time 3 minutes.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com Oops, I did it again! Hope you guys are not bored of me constantly posting different versions of the same patterns.

Not being a student anymore it’s harder to find time to sew and sometimes it’s just easier to grab a pattern that you already traced and fitted.

The Pattern:

I always hated shopping for trousers, so sewing them is just as daunting. I was positively surprised and super happy with the fit of my first pair of Ultimate Trousers and knew that I would be making more.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com Fit & Alterations:

I actually made this pair quite a while ago and have worn it many times since. I only made very few alterations to the pattern (a little more ease around the knees to make sitting down more comfortable!). The pattern is great for fitting your first pair of trousers if you’ve never made one before.

This time the fit is even better as I made them a bit wider around the knees and used a slightly stretchier fabric.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com The Fabric:

For some reason I used to hate floral patterns but nowadays I really love them (the big bold ones).

I got this fabric from the Mr’s grandma who basically gifted me most of her vintage fabric stash – I know! That’s super lucky! Most of the fabric is only about 75cm-100cm wide but then I have 2-4m of most of them. The narrow fabric was perfect for cutting out the trousers and I even managed to keep an eye on the pattern this time (No weird crotch pattern going on, yay!)

The fabric is a lightweight cotton with a bit of stretch – perfect for summer! It was a dream to sew with. It creases a bit but because the fit is quite tight and the print very busy I don’t really bother. I didn’t iron the trousers before taking these pics, so as you can see, it’s not really necessary.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

trousers: handmade, Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It
blouse: handmade, Burdastyle
shoes: s.Oliver

Will I make it again? There’s no reason why not. I seem to always need new trousers in a different colour or print and since I hate trouser-shopping I’ll happily whip up some more versions of this one! I might try and raise the waistband a bit next time of maybe add some pockets. Also, this style is perfect for my profession where wearing jeans isn’t always allowed. It would be silly not making the most of a well-fitting trouser pattern!

The heat’s unbearable, so I’m off to Iceland for two weeks! I won’t be able to sew, but maybe I can visit one of Europe’s largest fabric stores!

Charlie

Happy sewing!
♥

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Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A

May 31, 2015.Reading time 6 minutes.

Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A by thisblogisnotforyou.com Hello everyone! Hope you are all having a fantastic weekend! Mine has been great so far – had my last day at work on Friday followed by leaving drinks in the evening which was fun and pretty sad as well! Yesterday we hit Walthamstow market and I went a bit crazy fabric and notions shopping, because, who knows, there might be no fabric in Germany! (Or that’s what I kept telling me). And today I’m resting my feet and will tidy up and sort out all my sewing stuff in preparation for the big move.

Ahh, and did I tell you that I spontaneously made a Dirndl dress (including handmade Dirndl blouse and apron) last week because we had a fancy dress fundraiser at work? Well, I did, and it was pretty crazy as I had slighlty underestimated how much work that would be. But hey, I ended up with a pretty fab costume, lots of compliments and an actual Dirndl dress which I might even wear again in the future should I ever go to Oktoberfest. Anyhow, this project isn’t photographed yet, but you can head over to my Instagram (see sidebar) to see the end result! Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A by thisblogisnotforyou.com But let’s talk about these culottes now! The moment I saw the pattern in Burda Style magazine I wanted to make them. I wasn’t sure whether they would be flattering or practical, but they just looked too comfy and cool.

Pattern and Construction:

The pattern is Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A. Burda Style seems to have a thing for culottes now, as they only just had another pattern in the March issue.

The pattern came together very easily, the fit was spot on. I didn’t grade up as usually, as it’s a wide fit and went with size 10 (EUR 36) which I normally use for Burda Style bodices. The waistband sits on the natural waist. The culottes lay flat on the top thanks to the pleats and then flare out. They almost look like a midi skirt, it’s only when you start walking and people see it actually trousers.

The pattern inludes pockets (I looove pocketses!) and has a front fly which is the only slightly more complicated bit of the construction. Luckily, this pattern is featured in the magazine with detailed and illustrated instructions, so everything came together smoothly.

Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A by thisblogisnotforyou.com The Fit:

As I said, the fit was pretty much spot on. They are very flattering, also you can’t really see that in the pictures. (I really need to give those pleats another good press.) I love the high waist. The midi length might not work for everyone, but I think shortening the culottes might make them look a bit awkward. Although midi length often is on the verge to looking a bit frumpy and old-fashioned, it really works with these culottes especially when you wear them with heels. Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A by thisblogisnotforyou.com Fabric and Notions:

lightweight polyester (charity shop), polyester thread (Isacord), extra fine (70) sewing machine needle (Hemline on Amazon), overlocker to finish fabric edges, trouser hook with rivets (Weaverdee.com), 9 inch zip

The fabric is definitely not the perfect choice for this garment, but I wanted to make a wearable muslin first and this fabric was cheap and on hand. It’s a very, VERY light-weight polyester, which you can see in most of the pics as it only was a bit windy that day and the culottes basically wouldn’t hang straight.

The fabric is actually a 5m sari shawl (that’s probably not the right technical term for it) that I got in a charity shop for only a few quid. The fabric drapes beautifully and is super comfy, but I will definitely go for something with a bit more volume next time. I bought a pretty navy blue polyester-cotton-blend in Walthamstow yesterday which I will probably use for another one.
Burda Style Midi Culottes 04/2015 #113A by thisblogisnotforyou.com So overall, I’m quite happy with how they turned out. Obviously, the fabric isn’t quite right, but it sort of works. I think they look quite elegant – the Mr. says I look like a pirate in them. Well, I don’t mind that. Yoho!

Will I make it again?

Yes, I’m pretty sure you’ll see another one soon! It wasn’t an overly complicated project and it’s good for practising sewing a front fly! I already have fabric for another pair of culottes.

What do you think of the culottes trend? Do you like it? Would you make some yourself?

Happy sewing!
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My first pair of (Ultimate) Trousers

May 3, 2015.Reading time 5 minutes.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hallo, meine Lieben! You won’t believe it! After so many years of sewing, I’ve finally made my first (wearable) pair of trousers! (Not counting any shorts I’ve made.) Traumatised by hundreds of very unhappy experiences shopping for well-fitting trousers I decided at some point that sewing trousers was very difficult and frustrating and certainly nothing I wanted to try.

After testing one of their patterns, Lisa from Sew Over It kindly send me her Ultimate Trousers pattern which promised to be a super easy sew, so it went on my to-sew list. About a year later, I’ve finally given it a try and even went as far as making a muslin (a step which I happily skip more often than not). The muslin was a bit meh and I made a couple of very simple changes here and there and suddenly I ended up with some lovely trousers that actually fit me. Who would have known. sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Pattern:

As mentioned, I used the Ultimate Trousers pattern by Sew Over It, which is available as PDF(£8.50) or paper pattern (£14). I think it’s well worth the money, as it’s a simple, classic cut that it very easy to fit and which could be used as a base if you want to draft something more complicated. I’ve got a feeling that this will be my TNT trousers pattern for many more projects to come.

The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated instructions and it only took me a couple of hours from start to finish. There are no complicated front fly or pocket techniques to tackle, just a very simple invisible zip that’s inserted in one of the side seams. There’s no waist band, but facing instead.

I didn’t make any major changes to the pattern, just some tweaks here and there to adjust the fit.
sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Fit:

The fit was almost spot on, I just had to grade my size up a bit at the hip as I couldn’t close the zip on my muslin. This was quite a simple and quick fix and I didn’t even bother to make another muslin. With all the grading this pair of trousers is probably something between size 12 and 14, I guess. At first the trousers were a tad tight, but I knew that they would widen a bit after a couple of wears (which they did, yay!), so I didn’t make any further changes.

Would I make any more changes next time? Hm, maybe, maybe not. I’m pretty happy with the result. I think depending on the fabric, I might give a bit more wearing ease next time. And should I be super motivated, I might try a sway back adjustment. But that’s not very likely to happen.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I wonder why I ended up with a puckering zip? Maybe I should try clipping the seam allowance at the hip curve. Could also be my inability of accurately inserting a zip when having had too much coffee. sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Fabric:

I actually bought the fabric at Lisa’s new Sew Over It sewing cafe in Islington. I found it in the remnants box and it turned out that it was some fabric that Lisa had used for her own pair of Ultimate Trousers. There was just enough left to make another pair. To be honest, I have no idea what kind of fabric this is, almost looks like linen, but I’m pretty sure there’s polyester involved here. It’s lovely to wear and was easy to sew. It frayed quite a bit, but nothing that my little overlord couldn’t fix.

Sooo. Let’s talk about pattern placement. Or, what happens if you completely ignore it. I thought the pattern was random enough but now I ended up having awkward crotch stripes that could even be interpreted as scratches or hair, if you’re adventurous enough. What can I do about that now? I try to ignore it and hope others do, too.

sew over it - ultimate trousers by thisblogisnotforyou.com