Picking Plums in France

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyoAu.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Another Doris Dress

Hi there! After walking about in full-blown winter wardrobe for about two weeks now I’m mourning all my summer dresses I won’t be able to wear in the next few months. One of them is this cute red Doris Dress (by Sew Over It) I made this summer and took on our road trip to France.

I intentionally chose a colour that would also be great for autumn and I’m planning on wearing this dress with tights and boots and layered jumpers before winter really hits.

pattern: The Doris Dress (Sew Over It), Version 1 (size 10 graded to 12 below hips)
fabric: lightweight cotton viscose from a tiny sewing shop in Sweden
amount: 2,20m non-directional print
cost:¬†bundle price per kg, less than 10‚ā¨ (+ zip from my stash & handmade self-covered buttons)
duration: ~5 hr (incl. cutting out)

As you know, if you’ve been following this blog a while, I’m a huge fan of Sew Over It patterns. The Doris Dress was one of my favourites last year and the first version I made had lots of outings to weddings and summer parties. I immediately set out to make another one after last years trip to Sweden. It sat on my desk with just the zip left to put in for half a year and I finished it just before our holiday in August.

The fabric is a floral viscose I bought in Sweden last year, in a tiny shop that sold fabrics per kilogram! Viscose is the perfect fabric for this dress in my opinion. The way the skirt panels are cut works best with drapey fabrics. I used a bit over 2 metres, cutting out a UK size 10/12. I did not make any changes to the pattern, except that I cheated a bit and made a fake button placket. Since the dress has a invisible side zip put in, there really is no need to insert buttonholes, at least for size 10/12. I’d be curious, does this work for all sizes?

Anyway, it’s obviously way faster to construct if you just sew on decorative buttons. I made self-covered ones again as I could not find any buttons that worked with the style of the dress and fabric. If you look closely you can see I used the blue/purple flower print from the fabric to place on the 20mm buttons.

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comDoris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comDoris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comDoris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Just as I did with the other one, I love this dress to bits! It’s beautifully femine, classic and works for almost any occasion. I’m also a really big fan of viscose fabrics, especially for your summer holiday wardrobe. The fabrics are really lightweight, a cotton-blend is perfect for hot summer days. Viscose does crease quite easily but I also find that the creases go away without pressing just by hanging it in a moist bathroom (hang it in there while you shower!) or when you spray it with a diffuser water bottle and hang it up to dry.

Doris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.comDoris Dress Sew Over It by thisblogisnotforyou.com

To be able to wear these lovely viscose dresses over tights, I will have to make a few more slip dresses or skirts to help with the static. I only have one so far, which does not work with all my dresses. Do you have any pattern or fabric recommendations for slip dresses?

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!

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Autumnal Florence Dress

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

leaves as golden as the buttons on my dress

Every year I’m sad at the end of summer for exactly five seconds until I remember how much I love autumn. I find beauty in every season and autumn has its very own special appeal. Hot chocolate and cosy blankets, long walks with muddy dogs and wellies, the smell of burning wood fire and red wine and books. Oh, and long dresses and boots. Why complain about the weather then?

Remember how I gushed over the Doris Dress in one of my recent posts? The only dress that got me more comments and compliments this summer was this gorgeous floral Florence number. And I am so glad how well this lady transitioned into the cooler season. Just add boots and denim jacket and you’re good to go.

pattern: The Florence Dress (Sew Over It), Version 1 (size 10)
fabric: lightweight cotton viscose from a Swedish sewing shop in Ljungby
amount: ~2,75 m
cost:¬†less than 15‚ā¨¬†(it was price per kg, buttons from my vintage stash)
duration: ~4 hr

I’m having a massive Sew Over It sewing spree this year and Florence is one of their more recent patterns. From its release on I had my eyes on this pattern and couldn’t wait to find the right fabric. I found this lovely viscose maxi flower print during our holiday in Sweden and it was perfect for this pattern. The shop sold pre-cut fabrics¬†(price per kg) and I had a little less than needed for the Florence. As I’m super stubborn I went ahead anyway and just shortened the skirt pattern to fit my fabric. I love the midi length as it keeps the elegance but make for a much more casual, work-appropriate style.

Apart from changing the length, I sewed the pattern straight from the envelope without further adjustments. I got a pretty decent fit. (The shaping at the waist happens automatically due to the elastic sewn into the waist seam.) There appears to be some excess on the shoulders towards the neck, especially at the front, but since I wear the dress with the top unbuttoned it’s pretty much unnoticeable (to the untrained eye!) Now you go ahead and spot it!

I will certainly try and fix this when I make this dress again, which I most definitely will do!

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comSew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sew Over It Florence Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Do you wear your summer dresses during the cold season?
Or do you have a separate winter wardrobe?

xx

Charlie


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Burda Wool Coat & Mia Jeans

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Today I’m sharing two pretty amazing projects with you. One is an oversized coat I made last Winter and didn’t get around to blog until now and the other one is hot off the sewing machine: my first pair of skinny jeans!

Coat pattern: Let’s have a look at the coat first. For this cosy wool coat I used Burdastyle pattern 09/2015 #117A. View B is belted and slightly shorter than View A. The pattern is pretty brilliant as long as you use the right fabric. They’re asking for double-sided wool because it comes without lining.¬†Therefore, it’s a really quick, simple sew. No interfacing, no lining, no bindings. It’s pretty much just three pattern pieces: front, back and back sleeve (plus pockets). The sleeves are two pieces. The front one is cut as a kimono sleeve and part of the front bodice pattern.

 

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Fabric & construction: I found this amazing double-sided wool fabric at stoffkontor.eu¬†for a very good price. Unfortunately, they’ve run out of it since. It’s a lovely teal boiled wool on one side and a grey sweater knit on the other side. The pattern really requires a fabric with “two good sides”, so this one was perfect.

You might wonder about the contrast detail I did in the front. Well, this wasn’t planned I have to admit. I made a mistake I haven’t made in a long time: I forgot to mirror the front pieces. To my defense, I had to cut the coat with the fabric laid flat in one layer, because the pattern pieces are huge. I simply forgot to flip over the front pattern piece before cutting it out a second time. As I did not have enough fabric and couldn’t be bothered to order more, I decided to run with it.

Looking at it now, I think it looks pretty neat. The Mr thinks it’s the best feature of the coat, and he’s kind of right. Still, I sometimes catch myself thinking of it as a mistake, because I know it wasn’t planned.

The construction is very easy. So this is a great project for anyone who doesn’t feel ready yet to tackle a proper coat. As for finishing the raw edges, you simply fold over the edges and stitch them in place. So the only tricky bit is getting the mitred corners right and neat.

The coat closes as a wrap with two snap fastenings at the top.

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Skinny jeans pattern & construction: Let’s talk about my first pair of Mia Jeans! When SEW OVER IT published their Capsule Wardrobe pattern ebook, I couldn’t wait to try the skinny jeans pattern. I love a good high-waisted, simple pair of trousers and I love skinny jeans.

I was a bit concerned that getting the fit right might be a bit of a struggle. Luckily I had some really stretchy denim fabric in my stash which I could use as a muslin. Turned out I didn’t really need a muslin, as the fit was great and I only had to make minor adjustments. The pattern comes with an extra wide seam allowance at the side seam which makes fitting very easy.

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sewing the pockets was so much fun. Next to sewing the front fly, getting the pockets right is probably taking longest. I basted them on by hand before stitching to get them perfect.

I had a lot of fun trying out decorative stitching with my new sewing machine. I did not use contrasting thread for all seams, just for the pockets. It’s a very minimalist pattern, so the pockets really are the eye-catcher.

Although I’ve sewn quite a few front flies before, I struggled a bit with this one. I accidentally sewed the front shut and overlocked the seam before realising I was missing the front fly. Stupid, I know. I had to cut off quite a bit of the seam allowance to remove the overlocked edge and there wasn’t much left to play around with. Which made constructing the front fly a bit difficult. That’s why the zip is showing a bit, which is somewhat annoying.

Lisa of SEW OVER IT made a wonderful video tutorial on sewing the front fly, which you can find on her youtube channel. There are photographed instructions in the ebook, but if you’ve never tackled a front fly before, I really recommend watching the video tutorial.
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

(Very casually sucking in that tummy and hiding the showing zip)Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Both jeans and coat are amazingly comfy and therefore my new work uniform. I got a lot of compliments for the coat. Nobody mentioned¬†the jeans, which, I think, means they don’t look handmade and that is a good thing. ¬†I made a pair of skinny jeans that looks store-bought, ha!

Will I be making more? I definitely won’t make the coat again, as you do not need an indefinite amount of coats, and I am planning on making a properly lined and interfaced one this winter. But I will be making tons of Mia Jeans! In fact, I have already made another pair and bought fabric for at least three more! It’s definitely my go-to jeans pattern now and plain enough to use as a base for some great pattern hacks.

What’s your favourite pattern at the moment?

xx

Charlie


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Keira Cardigan in Black

Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.comKeira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.comKeira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lately, I was so busy sewing (and reading and knitting in order to muster some willingness towards the cold season) that I completely forgot to blog some of the makes we photographed a little while ago. One of these is another version of my KEIRA CARDIGAN, which I released a few weeks ago:

Keira Cardigan by Thisblogisnotforyou.com

The KEIRA Cardigan pattern is a pay as you wish pattern – so it’s basically free unless you choose to pay for it. You can download it here and read more about it here.

Pattern & Adjustments: As mentioned above, I used one of my own patterns for this cardigan. This one is actually one of my test versions I made prior to releasing this pattern. I sewed it up pretty much over a year ago, as I was planning to release the pattern last winter. I made the version with the wide binding around the edges. I only tweaked the sleeves a bit after this one, as the fit was a bit too snug Рstill wearable though.

Fabric:¬†This jumbo ribbed jersey, which I suspect is almost certainly 100% polyester, is really comfy and was a breeze to sew with. I bought it ages ago in a local fabric store when I still lived in Queen’s Park, London. It was ¬£1.50/m, 60 inch wide. I bought 2 metres of it. The fabric has made an earlier appearance on the blog, as a Lady Skater/Ultimate Pencil Skirt Frankendress. A little black dress I made with a self-drafted sequinned¬†cardigan which is the original KEIRA cardi I based the pattern on.
After wearing this cardigan for more than a year, I am surprised how well this fabric holds up. As you can see in the picture we took recently, there’s no trace of the innumerable times this garment has been in the wash. Pretty good for spending no more than¬†¬£3 on it considering I managed to squeeze out two garments.

Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com
img_8764

Keira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.comKeira Cardigan free pattern by thisblogisnotforyou.com

cardigan: handmade, KEIRA Cardigan by Audrey & Me Patterns
skirt: handmade, Ultimate Pencil Skirt by SEW OVER IT
belt: Primark
T-shirt: C&A

I’ve worn this KEIRA loads in the past year. All through last winter and spring and now again since it’s become really chilly again. Through summer I sometimes wore it instead of a light jacket. It goes with pretty much anything; mini skirts, fitted dresses, skinny jeans – it really is your wardrobe BFF! So far I’ve made four KEIRAs which are rotating pretty quickly as I love wearing them at the moment.

What’s your favourite (handmade?) garment this season?

Have a great week!

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!
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5 tips for the weekend #1

#1 movie that’s totally worth seeing

Benny and Joon (1993)¬†is one of my favorite movies. It’s hilarious, sad and with Johnny Depp. I think I don’t have to say more.

#2 book you won’t regret reading

Breakfast at Tiffany’s¬†(Truman Capote) is a pretty good read. It’s only a hundred pages and therefore perfect for a Sunday afternoon. And it’s so much better than the movie – seriously!

#3 fun craft idea

I love the fun chalkboard projects from this¬†blog. Especially these painted wine bottles. Chalkpaint spray isn’t that expensive and you can turn basically everything into a chalkboard within minutes.

#4 dish you should try

This braided cinnamon roll recipe  just looks delicous.

#5 last but not least

Use the weekend for an autumn walk! Don’t wait for the weather to get better. It won’t.