Another Sew Over It Love Affair: Mia Jeans & Juliette Blouse

SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hello there. I hope you’re not getting tired of me sharing Sew Over It makes 100% of the time. I’ve been wondering myself what draws me to these patterns (after just buying and cutting out a bunch of new ones…) and I think it’s the simplicity of the construction, the versatility and having found that for most of their patterns I do not need to make any adjustments. And that’s just such a huge time saver! I rarely have these moments anymore where I feel like picking a super complicated Burda masterpiece that I most likely will only wear once or twice. I crave patterns that I can make in a day over the weekend and can wear to work on Monday.

The Juliette Blouse took me a bit more than a day, as I needed to wait until the sewing shop opened on Monday to find matching buttons! I actually found the exact same colour, a peachy pastel pink, which was a little weird but I carried those two buttons home as if I found the most precious treasure, I can tell you.

This was the first time making this pattern and I really like it. I had no adjustments to make, as it’s quite loose-fitting. The fabric is a peachskin polyester with a little bit of weight to it, which works really nicely with the drape on the front detail. I love those little sleeve cuffs, they make the blouse look so elegant. We had a super hot summer, so I haven’t worn it often yet. I already see myself wearing this to death in autumn.
SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Mia Jeans does not need an introduction, I guess. I stopped counting how many Mias I’ve made and plan to make. It might soon overtake my Ultimate Pencil Skirt collection in numbers. I found this really cool stretch cotton in our local sewing shop. I wasn’t too sure about the print when I saw it on the roll, but I went for it and I really love it now. Such a cool trouser fabric! I got a lot of compliments wearing this. And it’s also really comfy to wear because of the stretch.SEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comSEW OVER IT Juliette Blouse and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Oh, and here’s a picture of me changing in the car, hehe. Anyone else do that when they take pictures for the blog? I’m being honest here – we do not take pictures just before I head out to work wearing my outfits. I would not have the nerve. Also it takes a lot of coaxing for the husband to comply with all this. (The current price is one round of board games per outfit…)We take an afternoon and drive somewhere and take pictures of several outfits during those sessions, so I sometimes have to get dressed in the car. This way I only have to get my hair done and apply makeup once! I noticed that I really need this as I feel much more comfortable having my picture taken when I had time to doll myself up a little.

What are you making on the weekend? I currently have cut out a Florence Dress and a Doris Dress (both Sew Over It), which I’m really exited about. The Florence will be a first. I have already made a beautiful Doris, which I’ll share real soon!

xx

Charlie


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Feeling Great in Mia Jeans & Carme Blouse

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.comMia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

A Winning Team

Hello & meet my new two favourite pieces in my wardrobe! Can you tell how much I love this outfit from the photos? I just love the combination of textures, colours and silhouettes. Let’s have a look at those fantastic team members, shall we?

pattern: Carme Blouse by Pauline Alice Patterns
fabric: cotton lawn from local shop
amount: 1,5 m
other materials: 10 buttons, interfacing optional
cost:
Zero as fabric and buttons both were gifted to me. (+8€ for the pattern)
duration: It took me almost two full days.

First, there’s the versatile, but high-maintenance Carme Blouse. I’ve had this pattern in my stash for ages and knew by the look of it that this wouldn’t be a quick and easy make. It a PDF/paper pattern by Pauline Alice Patterns, who have a small but growing gorgeous range of patterns in their shop. I sewed this pattern without making any fitting alterations, so it’s basically straight from the envelope!

After so many years of sewing my own clothes you should think I could more or less tackle any technique, right? Well, say hello to pin tucks. Let’s just say there’s still oh-so many things to learn. Man, these pin tucks were some real suckers, especially constructing them with such a lightweight fabric. Luckily the print is crazy enough to hide the uneven pleats! Otherwise you could see that I struggled on the left front yoke and had it figured out reaching the far right side of the yoke. My tip: instead of following the pattern markings for the pin tucks, measure them out one by one as you go. This way you’ll get evenly spaced pleats. In the beginning I tried to follow the pattern markings – but if you’re off by just a millimetre the inaccuracy becomes very noticeable after a couple of pleats and it’s increasingly difficult to correct.

I used this luscious cotton lawn, which was a gift from the Mr for our wedding anniversary. He bought it at a local fabric shop, so I can’t give you any more info than that it’s fa-bu-lous. It might be a bit too noisy for such details as pin tucks, but it was an experiment and I love how it turned out. Together with some simple skinny jeans it’s not too crazy, right?

The pattern comes with really cool sleeve taps and a button-down front, which make the blouse quite versatile. I like to wear the top unbuttoned and sleeves rolled up. It looks a lot more casual and the white back of the fabric gives a nice contrast. The cute buttons were a gift from my sister which she bought on a trip to Korea.

***

Let’s check out team member number two!

pattern: Mia Jeans by Sew Over It (Capsule Wardrobe ebook, £20)
fabric: stretch denim from Alfatex.de (12,90€/m)
amount: 1,5 m
other materials: 12,5 cm long zip, one jeans button, fusible interfacing
cost: ~ 20€ (the ebook was courtesy of Sew Over It)
duration: ~ 3 hours

It’s the very low-maintenance Mia Jeans! It’s my fourth pair of Mia Jeans, a pattern by Sew Over It. It’s made from a stretch denim fabric and the only main alteration I did (and which I do with all my Mias) is that I lengthened them to full-length instead of ankle-length.

The top-stitching at the waistband got a bit out of hand. There are days when I love me some top-stitching and this was one of them. I think it looks really nice and it also gives a bit more structure to the waistband. The best part about making jeans is that I get to try new decorative stitches on the pockets every time. My sewing machine has loads of different ones which I sadly never really need or use, so I make an extra effort of putting them on all the pairs of jeans I make.

I used blush pink thread for the top-stitching and overlocked seams. You can’t really see it in the pictures, but it looks really nice up close.

The easy fitting and quick construction is what I love about the Mia Jeans. As the cut is quite simple, the fitting options are limited. I always use stretch fabrics and try to really stabilise the waistband so it doesn’t start gaping after a couple of wears. As it’s a quite high-waisted pair of  jeans it’s flattering as long as you haven’t had a big lunch. But I don’t mind, life’s too short to suck in your tummy!

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Mia Jeans and Carme Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

jeans & blouse: handmade | shoes: second-hand Clarks | watch & jewellery: Skagen

I tried to wear this outfit as often as seemed appropriate recently without appearing like I have nothing else in my closet. I will definitely make a few more Carme Blouses, I’m sure! I might skip the pin tucks here and there and do a hack without them. I just really like the sleeve taps and button front.

As for the Mia Jeans – of course there will be more. My first pair was just about to come apart after two years of constant wear when I finished this one. So this is a constant cycle of sewing, wearing and burying the dead.

It’s crazy what a successfully handmade outfit does to your confidence. I’ve written about sometimes disliking myself in pictures in my last blog post. Well, not this time! Thumbs up to sewing boosting self-esteem, I guess.

xx

Charlie


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Another Pair of Mia Jeans

Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.com

Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.com
Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.com

Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.com

Hello! Here’s a quick share of another pair of Mia Jeans by SEW OVER IT that I made a couple of weeks ago. As you can see, the weather wasn’t too great when taking these pictures. If you need more details on this pattern, check out my first Mia Jeans post.

I’ve worn them pretty frequently and they’re holding up great. So far, they haven’t stretched out at all and the waistband kept its shape nicely. The fabric of the first pair of Mias I made was softer and stretchier, and the waistband creases quite a bit.

Again, as last time, I used the back pockets construction to try out some more embroidery stitches on my new sewing machine. I’m not a big fan of contrasting stitching on jeans, and this tiny added detail suits my taste perfectly. This time I interfaced the pocket pieces before adding the embroidery stitches, so the fabric didn’t stretch. Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.comMia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.comMia Jeans by thisblogisnotofryou.com

I’m really happy with this pattern. The fit is great and it’s a perfect base for future hacks. I like the extra large seam allowance – it really helps with the fitting process. The stretch fabrics make it easy enough, but as the amount of stretch in fabrics differs quite often, it’s necessary to do at least one fitting (or more if necessary), before finishing the outer side seams.

And yay! This time I got the front fly right from the beginning! I’ve got three more fabrics waiting to become some sort of Mia hack, so keep your eyes peeled!

Have a great week everyone,

xx

Charlie


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Burda Wool Coat & Mia Jeans

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Today I’m sharing two pretty amazing projects with you. One is an oversized coat I made last Winter and didn’t get around to blog until now and the other one is hot off the sewing machine: my first pair of skinny jeans!

Coat pattern: Let’s have a look at the coat first. For this cosy wool coat I used Burdastyle pattern 09/2015 #117A. View B is belted and slightly shorter than View A. The pattern is pretty brilliant as long as you use the right fabric. They’re asking for double-sided wool because it comes without lining. Therefore, it’s a really quick, simple sew. No interfacing, no lining, no bindings. It’s pretty much just three pattern pieces: front, back and back sleeve (plus pockets). The sleeves are two pieces. The front one is cut as a kimono sleeve and part of the front bodice pattern.

 

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Fabric & construction: I found this amazing double-sided wool fabric at stoffkontor.eu for a very good price. Unfortunately, they’ve run out of it since. It’s a lovely teal boiled wool on one side and a grey sweater knit on the other side. The pattern really requires a fabric with “two good sides”, so this one was perfect.

You might wonder about the contrast detail I did in the front. Well, this wasn’t planned I have to admit. I made a mistake I haven’t made in a long time: I forgot to mirror the front pieces. To my defense, I had to cut the coat with the fabric laid flat in one layer, because the pattern pieces are huge. I simply forgot to flip over the front pattern piece before cutting it out a second time. As I did not have enough fabric and couldn’t be bothered to order more, I decided to run with it.

Looking at it now, I think it looks pretty neat. The Mr thinks it’s the best feature of the coat, and he’s kind of right. Still, I sometimes catch myself thinking of it as a mistake, because I know it wasn’t planned.

The construction is very easy. So this is a great project for anyone who doesn’t feel ready yet to tackle a proper coat. As for finishing the raw edges, you simply fold over the edges and stitch them in place. So the only tricky bit is getting the mitred corners right and neat.

The coat closes as a wrap with two snap fastenings at the top.

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Skinny jeans pattern & construction: Let’s talk about my first pair of Mia Jeans! When SEW OVER IT published their Capsule Wardrobe pattern ebook, I couldn’t wait to try the skinny jeans pattern. I love a good high-waisted, simple pair of trousers and I love skinny jeans.

I was a bit concerned that getting the fit right might be a bit of a struggle. Luckily I had some really stretchy denim fabric in my stash which I could use as a muslin. Turned out I didn’t really need a muslin, as the fit was great and I only had to make minor adjustments. The pattern comes with an extra wide seam allowance at the side seam which makes fitting very easy.

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Sewing the pockets was so much fun. Next to sewing the front fly, getting the pockets right is probably taking longest. I basted them on by hand before stitching to get them perfect.

I had a lot of fun trying out decorative stitching with my new sewing machine. I did not use contrasting thread for all seams, just for the pockets. It’s a very minimalist pattern, so the pockets really are the eye-catcher.

Although I’ve sewn quite a few front flies before, I struggled a bit with this one. I accidentally sewed the front shut and overlocked the seam before realising I was missing the front fly. Stupid, I know. I had to cut off quite a bit of the seam allowance to remove the overlocked edge and there wasn’t much left to play around with. Which made constructing the front fly a bit difficult. That’s why the zip is showing a bit, which is somewhat annoying.

Lisa of SEW OVER IT made a wonderful video tutorial on sewing the front fly, which you can find on her youtube channel. There are photographed instructions in the ebook, but if you’ve never tackled a front fly before, I really recommend watching the video tutorial.
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

(Very casually sucking in that tummy and hiding the showing zip)Burda 09/2015 #117 and Mia Jeans by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Both jeans and coat are amazingly comfy and therefore my new work uniform. I got a lot of compliments for the coat. Nobody mentioned the jeans, which, I think, means they don’t look handmade and that is a good thing.  I made a pair of skinny jeans that looks store-bought, ha!

Will I be making more? I definitely won’t make the coat again, as you do not need an indefinite amount of coats, and I am planning on making a properly lined and interfaced one this winter. But I will be making tons of Mia Jeans! In fact, I have already made another pair and bought fabric for at least three more! It’s definitely my go-to jeans pattern now and plain enough to use as a base for some great pattern hacks.

What’s your favourite pattern at the moment?

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!

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