Let’s try something funky!

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comHey folks, hope you all had a great week! Mine was super busy and I have quite a bit of the behind-the-scenes stuff to share with you. I’ll probably squeeze into an extra post though, because I want to share my newest make first.

A little while ago, the lovely guys over at Funkifabrics (@funkifabrics) asked whether I’d like to try some of their fabrics. What a question! Hell Yes! You should really check out their website, they have the most amazing prints you will ever see! Seriously! It took me two days to narrow my samples down to 12, which I shortly afterwards got in the post.

The Fabric:

FunkiFabrics specialise in flexcite stretch (swim and dancewear) fabrics, so you will only be able to order lycra, but they have thousands (no kidding) of prints to choose from. Everything is designed and printed in the UK. Pretty awesome, if you ask me. Some might see the narrow fabric options as a disadvantage, but I think it’s pretty cool. First of all, lycra is super versatile. You can use it for swimwear, lingerie, leggings, dresses, skirts, sportswear and what not. Secondly, since the fabric is the same for all prints, it’s perfect if you want to mix prints and colours. You won’t have to worry about two fabrics not going well together. I picked a print called Prism. My challenge this year is to use more bold prints and colours. I think with this project I definitely achieved that.

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

At first I wasn’t sure what to make with it, but then I realised that I could simply use a jersey/stretch dress pattern. It’s just not the right season for sewing bikinis, you know (but I will with some of the leftover fabric). So let’s talk about the pattern:

The Pattern:

The pattern is…tada!…Burdastyle 04/2014 #112. Yes, I know! I haven’t used Burda patterns in ages. Lately I was all over indie patterns, but if you’ve followed this blog for a while now, you will know that I am a big Burda pattern fan. Since the print was so funky I thought I needed a slightly more funky dress pattern as well. Luckily, I recently went through all this year’s Burda magazines and this came to mind:

 

It’s a funnel neck dress with a twist. It has all sorts of design details going on. The whole dress piece is cut as one on fold. So there’s only one side seam, which is gathered at the hip and makes the hem slightly asymmetrical. One sleeve sits off-shoulder – since there is no side seam on that side there’s no shoulder seam. The sleeve is inserted by clipping the fabric horizontally and then using a very tiny seam allowance to attach the sleeve (which has no sleeve cap). The dress pattern itself is basically a large rectangle, darts in the front and back cinch it in at the waist and make it more fitted.

Adjustments: I shortened the dress by 20cm and lengthened the sleeve by 5cm. I cut out facing for the funnel neck instead of simply hemming it. I cut out a size 36 (UK 10) which I graded to a size 40 from hip downwards.

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Fit:

It’s quite hard to say something about the fit. Since the pattern is quite funky, I have no idea how this dress is supposed to look. It fits comfortably, but I am not so sure about the off-shoulder sleeve. Design details like this always have you end up with a batwing -like bunch of fabric  under your armpit. Despite all the darts, it’s not extremely fitted and the funnel neck does not behave and keeps moving around, that naughty bastard.

Issues:

There were loads of issues with this make. Luckily, I could fix most of them. I had some issues with the gathers at the hip, as they came undone when I overlocked the side seam. I should’ve used some twill tape for reinforcing that part (or learn how to gather with an overlocker). But in the end I could salvage it and it doesn’t look too bad. The print is way too busy anyway for people to notice.

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I lengthened the sleeves by 5cm in the front, because I like that slouchy look. One thing that I really need to practise is sewing the hem on stretch fabrics with my twin needle. I used a smaller twin needle (3mm) for the sleeves and a larger one for the hem (4.5mm). Normally I don’t have issues with my twin needle, but this time the bottom thread tension was to high and my stitching looks like piping now. It sort of looks ok, so I am not too unhappy about it. A friend of mine told me that it’s actually possible to fiddle with the tension somewhere at the bobbin case, I have to find out how! After all these years, my sewing machine still keeps secrets from me.

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Another issue I encountered was this. Since the back of the fabric is white, the funnel neck ended up looking very awkward and I didn’t like that the left side of the fabric was showing through. I thought I could simply fix this issue by facing the funnel neck. Which I did. Now it sort of looks ok when it is all nicely pulled into place.

Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

But when I bend over and all the fabric moves to the front, this happens:Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comWell, I have accepted this fact now and it didn’t bother me too much when I wore the dress. It’s super comfortable! And look, even my shoes’ lining matches the dress!Burda 04/2014 #112 Funnel Neck Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I have almost 1m of the prism print left and am now thinking of what to do with it. Not an easy decision since the print is so recognisable. Maybe a bikini or some really funky knickers. I will let you know anyway! Over all, this project was super fun and also quite challenging as I struggled a bit with some of the design details. Nothing is more satisfying than salvaging a sewing fail. I quite like the way the fabric and pattern work together, I never would’ve believed that lycra is such a great dress fabric.

What would you have made from this fabric?


Happy sewing!

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The new Pussy Bow Blouse pattern by Sew Over It

 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hi folks! Today I sharing my newest pussy bow blouse with you! After sewing three (!) Lottie Blouses, it was time to try another pussy bow blouse pattern. Luckily enough, Lisa, mastermind behind Sew Over It, asked me to test her newest pattern, the Pussy Bow Blouse. Lisa is known for her gorgeous patterns, mostly basic wardrobes staples (such as the Ultimate Trousers pattern or the Ultimate Wrap Dress) with a vintage touch.

source: www.sewoverit.com

So here it is, in all its glory!

 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The pattern:

The pattern was pretty much straight-forward and the instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow, thanks to the illustrations. The blouse comes in two different variations – you can choose between a v-neck or keyhole version. I wanted to try the keyhole version, but couldn’t wrap my head around one particular step in the instructions (we all have those days, no?) and since I already have three keyhole Lottie Blouses, I went with the v-neck option in the end.

The pattern comes in UK sizes 8-20 and is available as both a printed pattern and as a downloadable PDF. Sew Over It will also host a sewalong in the future, so keep your eyes peeled!

What I loved most about the pattern are the little details: for example the super cute buttoned cuffs. I used a black fabric covered button, which you can hardly see on the polkadot fabric!
 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The fit: 

I love the long sleeves – especially now that it is getting colder I was in desperate need for a long-sleeved blouse for work. This is the perfect pattern! The pattern has some interesting details in the way it is cut. It has a seam in the centre front! The cut resembles 1940’s blouses, sitting a bit off the shoulder. It confused me at first since I thought it was a fitting issue and I thought it would prevent me from moving my arms freely. In front of the mirror it felt as if I could’nt lift my arms all the way up, but now, after I have worn it at work several times, I can say that it didn’t bother me at all. I actually like that it has this vintage look.

The sleeves were a bit long for my taste and I simply could’ve shortened them, but I was too lazy to make a muslin. They are quite baggy and I really like the general shape of the sleeves and the cuffs, but since they are about 7cm too long they cover up the cute cuffs. My own fault! I could’ve at least measured them before attaching the cuffs!

 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The fabric:

The pattern suggests using light and drapey fabrics, such as rayon, chiffon and lightweight silks and crepes. I used a nude coloured georgette, which is slightly see-through and covered in black polkadots. I bought the fabric on Walthamstow Market ages ago (all I can remember is that it was super cheap), planning to make a dress or skirt from it. The print is actually quite busy and I am glad that I did not make a dress – I think it works best for a blouse like this!

The georgette is the perfect fabric to wear at work as it is not too warm (no sweat stains!) and is perfect for layering. It’s horrible to sew with, though. Cutting out georgette is messy and frustrating (never rush, but take your time!) and you have to be very careful that the fabric layers don’t slip when sewing and pinning. Luckily, I already had my overlocker then, so at least I didn’t have to worry about fraying edges!

 Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I mostly wear my blouse over skinny jeans and tight dark miniskirts or tucked in paired with a pencil skirt. It’s a perfect office look and ideal for our smart casual dresscode at work. I also accidentally wore it on the day at work when we went to visit a farm, so imagine me watching the piggy race and feeding the alpacas dressed up like a 1940’s secretary. Well, the alpacas didn’t mind.

Have you tried any Sew Over It patterns yet? The Ultimate Trousers are still on my list and I’m eyeballing the 1940’s tea dress, as well.

Don’t forget to enter the blog anniversary giveaway, if you haven’t done so yet! The giveaway is open internationally and closes on 30th September!


Happy sewing!

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A very autumnal Malvarosa Dress

Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comHi ya, fellows! Hope you had a great week so far. After a few very stressful shifts at work this week and last weekend I am now even more happy about having a week and a bit off – my first official annual leave since I started my new job. My best friend is coming to visit me here in London (whoop, whoop!) and I hope to get loads of sewing WIPs done, as well.

By the way, did I mention that I started teaching sewing workshops at work? I work in a large psychiatric hospital and many of our patients are on home leave on the weekends, so it’s a bit quieter on these days and I have some time to squeeze in a workshop every now and then. The first one went really well and was great fun for everybody.

Another great news: Tomorrow my blog turns two years old and shhh… make sure to pop by; there will be a giveaway you surely don’t want to miss!

Now, let’s get back onto the subject: I hate to say this, but it seems as if summer has come to an end. I am finally forced to think about my autumn wardrobe. I tried to avoid this for as long as possible (we can wear sleeveless dresses in autumn as well, can’t we? Long love cardigans!) Well, but then I came across this fabric.

Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The fabric:

It’s a beautiful peachskin polyester, courtesy of stoffe.de. It was end of roll fabric, but I loved it so much and got 1.1m of it. I thought it would be enough for a blouse or a mini shift dress. It’s a love it or hate it print and I love it (the Mr. does not so much). The fabric is lovely to wear, very light and soft and drapes really well. It was also great to sew with. Although I hate ordering fabrics online, I really liked my ‘shopping experience’ on stoffe.de (they’re called myfabrics.co.uk here in the UK!) They’ve got a massive choice of fabrics which are sorted very well and it’s easy to find what you’re looking for. The fabric is described in detail so what I thought I would get was actually exactly what I got in the end (which often isn’t the case when I shop online).

Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMalvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The pattern:

The print is quite large and I thought too many darts and seams would ruin it. Browsing through the Pauline Alice patterns website (there was a 20% sale for their first anniversary!) I came across the Malvarosa pattern and thought the cut would be perfect for the fabric I had. I wasn’t sure whether I had enough fabric (you needed at least 1.5m), but I thought I’d figure something out anyway. In the end I shortened the skirt a bit and did not cut it as wide as suggested in the pattern. Thus, I have a few gathers less, but I could squeeze the pattern onto the fabric. I even had enough for the pockets (which actually sold the pattern to me!)

Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comI love pockets! Pockets are great!Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMalvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe fit:

I really like the fit of this dress. The pattern describes the Malvarosa as

“babydoll dress [which] features an A-line bodice, low waistline, full gathered skirt, boat neckline, bust darts and drop shoulder sleeves.”

 

And this is exactly what it is. The dropped waist makes the fitting of the dress really easy and it’s very comfortable to wear. I actually think the wider fit is quite flattering. I never got so many compliments at work!

The only thing I am not so sure about are the ‘sleeves’. I really liked the long-sleeved version, but obviously had not enough fabric. I thought the cut of the sleeveless variation was very interesting and unusual, but after wearing the dress I am not sure whether I am a big fan or not. They don’t bother me, but I don’t think I like the shape too much. It is a good shape to wear at work though, as the shoulders are covered.

Malvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMalvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMalvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMalvarosa Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Have you tried the Malvarosa pattern? I’d love to hear your thoughts!

I’m pretty sure I’ll make this dress again, probably with the long sleeves. I also bought the Carme Blouse and Ninot Jacket pattern, make sure you check these out, too!

xx
Charlie


Happy sewing!

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The Megan Dress – Stitching My Way Through Tilly’s New Book

Megan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comTwo weeks ago I got Tilly’s Love at First Stitch in the mail and on the same evening read it from cover to cover. Although I love Tilly’s blog, I had my doubts about buying the book. I have so many sewing books that cover all the basics and as I consider myself an advanced seamstress by now, I thought this book just wasn’t for me. However I saw all these gorgeous Megans, Lilous and Mimis popping up over the interwebs and wanted to get a hand on these patterns myself.

Even if I don’t like the book, I thought, it would make a perfect prezzie for a novice sewer. All I can say is I wasn’t disappointed. Quite the opposite! Although the book covers all the basics more advanced sewers will already be familiar with, it’s super entertaining to read. I love Tilly’s voice in there and you will find her distinctive style on every single page in the book. I even found out that my cheapo-machine has a thread cutter, which I had never noticed before. Win!

The book itself is absolutely adorable and I won’t be giving it to anyone. I will keep it. Forever. HA! But I might get a second copy in the future, should I ever need a sewing-related gift.

Megan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Megan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Since I was eyeballing the Megan dress from the beginning, this was the obvious first choice. I traced the pattern before even knowing what fabric I would use. I found two fabrics in my stash which were leftovers from previous projects.

Basically the same fabric in different colours. I don’t quite know what fabric it is though. It’s quite heavy-weight, but stretchy and seems to be a woven. It’s probably a blend which definitely contains polyester. Any ideas?

I used the navy fabric for my Audrey Hepburn dress and the green fabric was leftover from my wiggle dress. Stash diet ahoy!Megan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comMegan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The dress was stitched together in just a few hours, with no alterations. I cut out a size 3, which according to the measurement table should’ve been rather wide, but it ended up being a bit too tight, although the fabric is quite stretchy. There’s a bit of gappage at the back when I lift my arms, so I have to keep reminding myself to pull the dress down every once in a while.

I started the dress the night before the John Lewis Sewing Bee and still had to put in the zip in the morning. But I managed to finish it on time and wore it that day.

Megan Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comJohn Lewis 150 Sewing Bee // thisblogisnotforyou.com

I actually wore it twice already, on a hot sunny day last weekend but I noticed that it’s a bit too warm for those incredibly warm days outside. I will probably sew it again using some light-weight cotton.

Oh, and a Lilou pattern hack is on its way 😉

Are you planning on getting Tilly’s book or have you already tried some of the patterns?

xx
Charlie


Happy sewing!

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