My Handmade Dirndl

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hi my lovelies! Guess what?
I’m finally sharing my handmade Dirndl with you!

Man, this is long overdue! I made it in May 2015, which feels like ages ago now.Ā So why would I make a Dirndl if it wasn’t made for Halloween or Oktoberfest?

I don’t want to get into the whole Dirndl discussion, but since I’m German, I might say a word or two. Although many people love to think this is what GermansĀ like to wear, wearing Dirndl or Lederhosen is pretty much like wearing kilts in Scotland. The average German will probably never wear or even own one, except for maybe visiting Oktoberfest. The traditional long Dirndls are sometimes worn in some more rural areas in southern Germany, but you see that very rarely and it’s definitely not considered as fashionable in the rest of the country. Having worn one now, I have to say you actually feel very pretty and femine in it. I’d still not wear one in the streets though. Puff sleeves and all, you feel like a freakin’ Disney princess. Which is not the look you’re going for when you’re older than 12, I guess.

I made my Dirndl for a fancy dress party at work which funnily enough was on my last day at work. Since I was working in a hospital back then I didn’t want to go over the top with my costume (I also had to attend my exit interview that day). As I was the German girl on the ward anyway, I decided to dress up as one. Pretty imaginative, eh?Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

So that’s the story. I haven’t worn it since and wasn’t to keen on going outside dressed like this to take picture for the blog!

Now, five months later, we actually live in Bavaria (who would’ve known!) and it’s not that weird to wear one here.

THE PATTERN

From having the costume idea to the actual fancy dress party I had exactly three days. At first I thought about drafting a Dirndl based on my By Hand London Elisalex pattern, but then I thought What the heck, if you’re actually making a Dirndl, do it properly.

You can find a whole bunch of Dirndl dress patterns on the German Burdastyle website. Which is where I found a really nice burda young pattern, which looked a bit prettier than the common Dirndl patterns. Burdastyle has added more Dirndl patterns since, so whoever is interested, this is Dirndl paradise now.

source: burdastyle.de

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

THE FABRIC & MATERIALS

Originally, I wanted to use some light blue cotton and add a white apron (to get more of an Alice in Wonderland look), but as it turns out, Dirndls are fabric eaters and I didn’t have enough.

For the actual dress, I used a navy blue 100% cotton, which originally was a John Lewis duvet cover I got at Oxfam for £4. It was a massive piece and the only fabric I had enough  of to cut the skirt from. The skirt consists of 4 pattern pieces and has approx. an 8 metre long hem. I still had enough left to cut the bodice and lining from it two.

I used the light blue fabric for the piping in the front and back (which isn’t included in the pattern!) and to make the Froschgoscherl trim. The trim took ages to make, but was the most fun part in the construction. Instead of using readymade trim, I made the ‘ribbon’ myself by sewing two massive strips of dark and light blue cotton together and turning it inside out. I pressed it and topstitched close to the edges with contrasting thread. The ribbon is then folded and stitched in an origami-esque way to create the Froschgoscherl.

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The dress has an ivisible zip in the front, which is a bit unusual normally but actually quite common for a Dirndl dress. The lacing is just decorative. I used six folklore buttons and some satin ribbon.

The blouse is part of the Burda pattern and the pattern also includes different sleeve and neckline options. I went for full on puff sleeves.

The blouse is made from white 100% cotton fabric. As is common for Dirndl blouses, it end just below the bust, so as not to add any bulk around your waist area. This is actually pretty genius, although a bit uncomfortable at first.

The apron is made from some quilting cotton I bought years ago. It’s red with tiny white hearts on it.

I really prefer the Dirndl without the apron, it’s much prettier and less costumy, right?Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

White puff sleeves attract lady bugs and butterflies…what does it remind me of again…? Umm…Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Handmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.comHandmade Dirndl by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Will I make it again? Umm, no. It was super fun and a lot of work and I could use loads of old cottons from my stash. But since I hardly wear it at all, I don’t think I’ll make another one.

Hope you all have a Happy Halloween! It’s the perfect excuse to buy all the kids candy in the supermarket! I’m hoping the kids in our street won’t ring at our door, so that I can have all the chocolates myself. Ha!

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!
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Glimpses of My New Sewing Space & WIP

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comServus, peeps!

I still have a hard time getting used to Servus and Grüß Gott,Ā which is ‘hello’ here in Bavaria. Even for me as a German, this is pretty strange.

Soo, where have I been? (What are my excuses??)
Well, as you know (or might not know), I’ve moved from London to Germany this summer and it took a while to find a new city and perfect place to stay in. I’ve been in Berlin before (and loved it) but work send us down south this time and we’ve settled for no less than Munich, Bavaria. It’s super different from Londontown but we’re getting used to it (which is much easier than it was getting used to London, tbh).

Anyhow, my main excuse for taking a couple of weeks off is basically having no Wifi. It takes about four weeks until your Wifi connection is fully set up, which is horrifically normal here. I had no idea!

It’s surprising how helpless and cut-off you feel without Wifi. I am ashamed! I got used to it pretty quickly, though – because you don’t really have a choice. I’ve never read so many books in such a short amount of time! And I had plenty of time to unpack and settle in.

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comsewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comsewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comsewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.com

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.com

NEW SEWING SPACE

Finally, after weeks and weeks of having all my sewing and craft stuff boxed up somewhere in a storage unit, I can surround myself again with my creative mess. It feels soo good!

I couldn’t blog without Wifi, so I got right into the messy sewing bit before taking pictures of my new, tidy sewing space. I thought about tidying it up for the pictures, but then I thought, That’s not what sewing spaces usually look like!Ā So I took a couple of sneaky snaps including all the messy corners. For now it’s just glimpses, but I’ll share some more pics with you next time.

Compared to London our flat doubled in size and we have loads of nice corners and backdrops for blog pics. This wasn’t my main criteria when we went flat hunting, but it’s an asset for sure!

My sewing “room” is set up in an open space which connects to our hallway and kitchen and it’s super bright and airy with big windows and enough room for all my supplies. Compared to sewing at the kitchen table (which stood in the reception due to lack of space) as before, this is a dream come true.

Working is so much easier, faster and more efficient. I feel inspired and can’t wait to sew all the things that I have in mind!

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comsewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.comsewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.com

WIP (WORK IN PROGRESS)

Since moving in I’ve been working on a couple of things. To ease back in I chose a cowl neck top (pattern by Sew Over It), which I’ll show you next time. The pattern is great, so I made a second version as a dress. Right now I am working on a project for White Tree Fabrics, which I can’t wait to share with you! I still have to figure out some fit issues first, though.

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.com

sewing room by thisblogisnotforyou.com

It feels good to be back! Right now I’m still catching up on emails and blog posts – sorry if I haven’t replied to any of your comments!

xx

Charlie


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Lottie Blouse Hack and Mini Pencil skirt

Lottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.com

A PERFECT MATCH

Guess what? I’ve done it again (sorry, if you’re getting really bored by now)! I made YET ANOTHER Lottie Blouse version and my third Sew Over It classic pencil skirt so far. If you’re already screaming in your head, you should probably unfollow me, because one thing I can promise you: There will probably be more.

For this Lottie Blouse I didn’t alter the pattern much, but added a button placket. (If you want to learn how to do this, you can read the full tutorial in Love Sewing Magazine, Issue 18, pages 46-48, which is in stores now.)

Lottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The Fabric:

The fabric is Verona Peachskin in emerald (Ā£10pm, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk) and was gifted to me for this particular project by Love Sewing Mag (all opinions are my own!). It’s got a lovely feel and drape to it, although it wasn’t as drapey as I thought it would be in the end. I’ve made all my other Lottie blouses from fabrics with very similar qualities, so I knew what to expect.

I won’t say much about the fit, you’ll find this information in the other Lottie posts (find them in the project gallery). In my last Lottie post, I noticed how the blouse was a bit too tight in the bust area after omitting the keyhole. Last time, I added a few extra cm at the centre front. This time I simply cut out the blouse one size larger than my usual size.

It fits much better around the bust and I have no problem with a gaping button placket or anything, but it’s a bit too wide at the shoulders (for my taste). The looser fitĀ was great to wear during the really hot weeks this summer, though.Ā Lottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I ‘ve matched the blouse with a me-made skirt. I used my go-to pencil skirt pattern (Sew Over It) which is my all-time favourite. I just cannot stop mentioning how flattering it is. I’m not a super confident person, but I always feel great when I wear my pencil skirts. That’s just a fact.

This time I made a mini version which hits above the knee. I simply shortened the pattern and omitted the kick-pleat.

The Fabric:

I bought the fabric during our Sew Brum meet-up in Birmingham last year. I can’t remember the name of the warehouse-like shop we went to (Barry something something? It’s called Barry’s Fabrics – Thanks, Charlotte!). It’s a jaquard jersey, a very stable knit, that I got for £5pm. I only got half a metre (no risk no fun!) and it was just enough to make this skirt.

It fits like a glove and is really comfy. It’s a bit short when I sit down, so I won’t be wearing it at work. I love that it’s black and white, because it goes really well with all my plain coloured tops.

Lottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Blouse Hack and Pencil Skirt by thisblogisnotforyou.comPhoto-bombing dog!IMG_4826

The combination pussy bow blouse & pencil skirt is my absolute favourite outfit at the moment. The mini skirt is great for going out and the knee-length one is perfectĀ for work.

Oh, and for the very observantĀ readers: Yes, I cut my hair! It was quite long before but really damaged from all the dyeing, so I decided to get a LOB (I just very recently learned that this is what you call a long bob). So far I’m really happy with it.

I’m moving to Munich next week and hope to set up my new sewing corner soon!

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!
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Wedding Dress Part I: Decisions, decisions!

thisblogisnotforyou.comA couple of months ago, when I helped my friend DanielaĀ with her beautiful handmade wedding dress and the various little crisis involved in such a massive project, I had absolutely no idea that I might face the same questions a few weeks later! Well, here I am and having said YES (and being a sewing addict) I’m faced with a bunch of decisions to be made.

The first big question:

WILL I MAKE MY OWN DRESS?

For me it was a definitive yes from the beginning. Here’s why:

  • Sewing my own clothes has made me super picky in regards to fit, style, fabric quality and finishes. How will I possibly manage to find a ready-made dress that ticks off all these criteria and doesn’t cost a fortune? It’s hard to control all these factors and stay within the budget if you buy a dress of the rack.
  • Ā I’m a big fan of couture and try to use as many techniques as possible when making garments. Having the opportunity at tryingĀ my hand at making a full on couture gown is just too tempting. It’s the perfect excuse to buy all the lovely, expensive fabrics IĀ wouldn’t buy otherwise.
  • The thought of having a super unique dress that is 100% my styleĀ and then being able to say: ‘I’ve made this’!

Looking at it realistically, it is simply sewing a dress. I’ve sewn many dresses and most of them were pretty wearable. So why not?

The next step:

PLANNING THE DESIGN

Every sewing projects involves quite a few decisions you have to make before you start. What garment to you want to make? What style and pattern? Fabric? Colours and prints? Embellishments?

I started by looking at loads of dresses, especially the ones by my favourtie designers. Pinterest is a big help. I basically pinned everything I liked. At this point I thought I’m never going to make it. I just couldn’t make up my mind.

Kaviar Gauche

Augusta Jones

Papilio

Silk taffeta, silk chiffon, tulle, lace, satin? Embellishments? Sleeves or straps or neither? Ballgown, A-line, mermaid, empire? Short, long, tea-length? Oh, and then there’s not only simply white dresses! This struggle is real, people!

It took me about a month to realise that you really have to narrow it down to “the one” before you can start. This is the hardest, but most necessary part I think. After looking at dresses for over a month I had formed a pretty clear idea of what I liked and what I didn’t like. I dismissed some old ideas and picked quite a few of my favourite dresses.

Some of you might disagree with the idea, but I sat down with the Mr himself and tried to narrow it down to a few styles that we both liked. In the end this was the most helpful thing to do. Seriously! I wouldn’t want to spend months making something that he might hate in the end. Our tastes are quite different and in the end there was only one that we both loved. (Yes, loved, not liked! Liking, in this case, just isn’t enough!)

So we took all that we liked most of the design we picked and added some of our own touches and details we liked on other dresses. We made definite decisions on fabrics, colours and so on. The Mr is really good with making final decisions, which helps a lot. Nothing is worse than making a decision and starting to question it again and again. Make it, stick to it. The sewing process is flexible enough to change little detail here and there if something doesn’t work out the way you planned it.

Photo by Photo: Philip Friedman; Styling: Blake Ramsey Wedding Dress Fabric Glossary. Found on: www.realsimple.com

Allure Bridals

SHOPPING FOR FABRICS

First, I set a budget. The budget will also guide you when shopping for fabrics. Chiffon or silk chiffon? Satin or silk satin? Tulle or lace? This is not only a design question but also a question of costs.

If it comes down to the pennies, you might want to sew a muslin first, to see how much fabric you really need.

Also, go with your guts. When I went fabric shopping, I only wanted to get fabric for the muslin. I found the most gorgeous, perfect fabric in the end. I knew that I would regret not buying it and then spend loads of time finding something similar later on. The fabricĀ was just within my budget and I went ahead and got it that day. It’s super scary but a relief at the same time.Ā 

Apart from buying the fabric and fabric for making a toile, I haven’t progressed any further yet. We’re moving into a new flat soon (finally!) and I’ll wait until I have my dedicated sewing space back before I start working on the pattern.

Have any of you made your own dresses? Any advice you’d like to share? And those of you who decided against it, I’d love to hear why!

xx

Charlie


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Lottie Blouse hacked into a Dress with a Doggie Print

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

A DRESSĀ &Ā A DOG

Apparently, it was National Dog Day yesterday. Perfect timing to show off the Scottie Dog Dress I made a little while ago. Our little doggie was kind enough to star as my fashionable accessory. He actually looks a bit like the dogs on the fabric’s print. A cute dress paired with a cute dog – could I wish for more?

The Fabric:

I bought the fabric ages ago in Walthamstow, London. For those of you who know the area, it’s the last fabric shop on the left side of the road, when you walk down the market coming from Walthamstow Station. I don’t remember the name of the shop, but it’s near Saeed’s Fabrics. It’s a tiny shop with loads of cheap polyester, chiffon and jersey fabrics. It’s perfect if you’re looking for fun prints but don’t want to spend a lot of money.

I usually use these kinds of fabric for wearable muslins and experimental projects, where everything can go wrong (but it doesn’t have to!) and you want to use fabric you won’t cry for later. And it’s acutally cheaper than proper cotton muslin fabric!

The doggie print is a £1/m polyester fabric. It’s easy to cut and sew, but you have to be careful when pressing it. It melts (and darkens) easily. Press on a low temperature using a pressing cloth! It has quite a bit of stand and doesn’t drape too well as you can see around the waist line. It adds quite a bit of volume! I also bought the same fabric in black with tiny elephants, which I used for my first Lottie Blouse.

The white, slightly sheer fabric is also a polyester which I bought on Goldhawk Road, London. I used this fabric before, for my first Lottie hack.

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern:

The pattern is – what a surprise – the Lottie Blouse pattern from Love Sewing Magazine which I have hacked into a dress with a contrasting yoke. I’ve made the blouse loads of times using different hacks and fabrics each time (here, here, here & here). I won’t say much about the pattern, as I have reviewed it before. Check out the other posts if you want to know more about it!

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Construction & Alterations:

I more or less kept the blouse except for slashing the front and back bodice pattern to add a seamline for the contrasting yoke. This is pretty simple: you slash the pattern where you want the new seamline to be and add seam allowance to the new edges. I pressed the seam allowance downwards so you can’t see it throught the sheer white fabric. It’s topstitched into place with white contrasting thread.

I lengthened the blouse to knee-length, keeping the waist fairly straight and curving out and in a bit at the hips and knees. Again, I slashed the pattern to add the contrast panel at the hem.

To add some shape and get the cinched waist look I wanted, I added some elastic which I sewed directly onto the fabric (no casing!) using a large zigzag stitch. The elastic was sewn on slightly below the natural waist so that it pulls the skirt up and adds some more volume to the bodice. This look is super comfortable and perfect if you’re having a large meal out! šŸ™‚

I’ve kept the bodice and skirt slightly larger than my usual size. The polyester fabric is very lightweight and nice for warmer days, but it’s not as comfy as cotton on hot summer days, so it’s better to leave a lot of ease.

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I’m not sure why I keep using this pattern again and again. It’s quite versatile and comes together super quickly (which is probably why). Who doesn’t love quick projects for when you have too little time to sew?

What’s the pattern you have used most often?

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!
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