Cowl Neck Wool Dress

Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

In January I was approached by the generous team of Minerva Crafts who offered to try out one of their fabrics (including a pattern). I was over the moon and super excited, and rummaged through their shop for quite some time as I couldn’t decide (as always). The fabric arrived promptly in the mail two days later. Now, three months later, my dress is finished.  What?! Three months? Shame on me! And why wait to finish a wool dress until it’s almost too warm outside to wear it?

Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The reason it took me so long was that I struggled with the pattern. I picked a very ambitous Donna Karan for Vogue pattern, which was super hard to fit and in the end just didn’t work with the fabric I had picked. Lesson learned. I will show you the disastrous toile I made another time.

donna-karan-vogue-v1361

I still love the pattern, but at the moment I’m still fed up with the fitting process and I will have to let some time pass before I can pick it up again. The main problem of the fit was that there basically are no side seams and A LOT of pleats which run diagonally across the back, side and front of the dress. Any alteration (eg. grading up to a larger size for the skirt) requires A LOT of thinking. Unfortunately, the lovely wool I picked was a bit too light-weight for this project.Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comCowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comCowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I picked three metres of a charcoal grey knitted stretch fabric which is 75% Acrylic, 8% Wool, 17% Nylon. The texture is amazing and works really well with more drapey projects, such as the cowl neck dress I ended up making instead of the Donna Karan dress.

source: Burdastyle.com
Burdastyle 10/2012 #118A

I eventually went with a Burdastyle pattern of the 10/2012 issue, #118 A. The pattern originally has a zip and is made for non-stretch fabrics, cut on the bias. I skipped the zip as my fabric was very stretchy, took the side in a bit and finished the project in one evening. That’s how fast is was!Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I love the cowl neck and the gathering at the waist and feel super comfy in this dress. I will probably not have too many occasions to wear it in the near future, as it’s a bit too warm for summer, but I see myself wearing this a lot in autumn and winter. It’s just so soft that I want to constantly hug myself (sounds a bit pathetic, I know).Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comI have a bit of the fabric left which will be just enough for a little cardigan! I’m also planning on sewing a little slip dress with some black spandex fabric, I’m a bit paranoid about the see-throughness of this fabric. And btw, this is #22 (actually it’s the almost unfinished #23) of my 27 Dresses Challenge! Five more to go! Cowl Neck Wool Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Will I ever be able to sew the Donna Karan dress? I’ll let you know, if I do.


Happy sewing!

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end of summer shorts

corduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.comHello everyone!
I wanted to write this post days ago, but I was busy writing applications and going to job interviews. Fun times!

***Warning! This post contains very bad blurry selfies!***


In between all this post graduate madness I managed to whip up these cute corduroy shorts, which I call “end of summer shorts” as they are short enough for the last sunny days, but due to the corduroy can also be worn with thick tights when it gets colder. Genius, eh?

By the way, it’s number 13 of my 27 Dresses Challenge. For those of you who just happened to stumble across my blog: Yes, I do could shorts as dresses. Please don’t ask me why.

Again, I used a Burda pattern (I see everyone rolling their eyes…). It’s the Pleated Shorts 07/2013 #105A pattern. No idea why there is an A, B and C version, as they are all exactly the same pattern, just in a different colour.

source: burdastyle.com

As my legs don’t even remotely look like the ones in the picture above and I recently made the acquaintance of way too short shorts ( I won’t go into detail, I promise) I thought it was clever to lengthen the pattern before making a muslin. (I don’t always make muslins, but with trousers and shorts I always do, as – what can I say –  my butt is not easy to work with.)

Lengthening the pattern:

corduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.com

(Yes, parts of my dissertation drafts photobombed this picture and I don’t know why.)

I drew a horizontal line and cut the pattern pieces in two.

corduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I moved them apart by 4cm/~1,5inch and glued them onto a piece of paper (ah, now I know why the disso was lying there!)corduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.comI then cut out the muslin and sewed everything together, just to notice that the shorts looked really bad and way too long. Due to the pleats they just made my butt look huuuge. I didn’t take pictures of the muslin, and trust me, you really don’t want to see this.

I ended up removing the extra paper and glueing the pattern pieces back together. Now the shorts have the original length and I’m pretty much fine with that. At least I could show you how to lengthen a pattern. Yay 🙂

Here they are in all their glory:

corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.comcorduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I decided to make them a bit more fun by adding this flowery cotton fabric. I used it for the pockets, belt loops, and parts of the fly.corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.comcorduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Since the cotton fabric was not as heavy as the corduroy, I cut out the pocket in corduroy and cotton and basted the two layers together before sewing.corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I used a very narrow seam allowance, so the basting stitches are hidden in the final seam allowance.corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

After basting the layers together, you proceed like normally.corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I wanted to have the cotton fabric on the left side, but ended up cutting it out wrong and did not have enough fabric to do it again…
I found this cute button in my button collection and thought it would look great on the corduroy fabric. What do you think?
corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

First time I made belt loops! corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I got 15 different sewing machine feet for my birthday (from my lovely little sister) and decided to go pro and use them all as often as possible, haha.

But actually I noticed it made my sewing so much better! Look at this! Perfect stitching in the ditch. I never really managed to do this properly (so it doesn’t show in the end) and had to sew on my bias binding or waistband by hand. But now that I have an edgestitch foot I can do magic.

corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I had this buttonhole foot before and use it whenever I have to make buttonholes. Just wanted to show it off:corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

It’s really easy to use and if you don’t have one – get one! They are inexpensive and absolutely worth it, if you’re sewing machine does have a buttonhole setting.

Quick tip:
When opening buttonholes with a seam ripper, I always put a pin at the end of the button hole to keep the seam ripper from going through the threads and the end of the buttonhole. Works like a charm and nothing is more annoying than screwing up a perfectly sewn buttonhole, believe me!

corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I think these shorts might actually be the first garment that I sewed from scratch without any major catastrophes happening on the way. The only flaw: I cut out the waistband against the straight grain and it’s really wobbly now, even after pressing it. (As you can see in the picture below).

I stitched a few straight vertical lines that are hidden by the belt loops to keep the waistband as straight and flat as possible.
corduroy short by thisblogisnotforyou.comcorduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Done!

By the way, I found these awesome shoes in a thrift store last week (completely new for 4 pounds only. Sigh) I love thrifting! It’s inexpensive, you don’t feel bad refashioning and cutting apart things you just bought and you do something for the planet by re-using things instead of buying new stuff all the time. 
corduroy shorts by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I wish it weren’t END of summer shorts, though. I really don’t want the summer to end. There are so many maxi dresses I want to sew and already bought the fabric.
Did you make any autumn-inspired things lately?

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A wiggle dress and some serious wardrobe malfunction

wiggle dress Burda 7/2013 #122A by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hi everyone! Phew, what a weekend! I not only attended the London Sewing Blogger Meet-Up on Saturday and met a few dozen lovely seamstresses, but now I’m also officially done with my master’s after handing in my last essay yesterday. (Yep I went fabric swapping instead of working on my last assignment ever and it was awesome! If you want to read about the Meet Up, lovely Claire who organised everything wrote about it on her blog!)
And by the way, I did not forget to choose some blogs for the Liebster Award nomination, I was just too busy being a student and a seamstress at the same time 🙂

I know, stop talking and get down to business!

I finished dress #12 of my 27 Dresses Challenge! A green halter dress which reminds me a lot of the Marilyn wiggle dresses and believe me, this dress is so tight – there’s a lot of wiggling!

wiggle dress Burda 7/2013 #122A by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I used the #122A pattern of the Burdastyle magazine July issue.

Besides all the wiggling, there’s some serious risk of wardrobe malfunction with this dress. I was stupid enough to ignore the Burda instructions (like always…) and chose a stretchy, but obviously not stretchy enough fabric for making this dress.

Now it’s not only super super tight, but I’m afraid I’ll never wear this dress outside our flat. Why? Look at this!

wiggle dress Burda 7/2013 #122A by thisblogisnotforyou.com

It doesn’t look too bad in the picture, but in reality my boobies look like stringed ham on Christmas.

wiggle dress Burda 7/2013 #122A by thisblogisnotforyou.com

There are also some other things that went wrong which you (lucky me) can’t see in these super blurry pictures (sorry, broken lightbulb and both me and Mr.Thisblogisnotforyou were too lazy to get a new one.)

The fabric of the bodice part of this dress is basically the wrong way up. Yes! Stupid! Why?

I decided to cut out the fabric while watching a movie (distraction) in the living room (broken lightbulb). On the first look the fabric looks the same from both sides. If you look closer (which I obviously didn’t) you see that the fabric on the right side is slightly shinier than on the left.

Where is Tim Gunn when you need him? A “This concerns me enormously” would have helped. Thanks, Tim.

wiggle dress Burda 7/2013 #122A by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I’ll better not tell you that I sewed on the skirt wrong side up the first time, ending up with the raw edges on the outside. No, I better won’t.

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Audrey Hepburn Dress now also available in Plus Size!

I made this fabulous dress a little while ago and just wanted to announce, that Burdastyle now also will have the pattern in Plus Sizes!

Audrey Hepburn sheath dress

They will also have 8 more 40’s Hollywood style plus size patterns in the new Augst issue of Burdastyle magazine! Happy Sewing!

 

Panda Chiffon Blouse

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Hello my lovely readers – hope you had a great week so far!

I finally had time to edit the pictures I took of #11 of my 27 Dresses Challenge! Wow, it’s 11 already and there are more lovelies lying around here waiting to be finished (I guess I have to start saving some money for the overlock sewing machine soon:) )!

This chiffon blouse  was made from a cute panda fabric I got for  £1.20/m! No, fabrics normally aren’t that cheap here in London (too bad!), but there are some really inexpensive fabric stores near Walthamstow Central Station which, I guess, is no secret to London sewists. The downside is that the fabrics are not the very best quality and although they have a huge selection, I often can’t find want I am looking for.

For this blouse I actually wanted to go with the original Burdastyle pattern, using a white batiste and lace trim. Finding a nice lightweight white fabric shouldn’t be that hard, eh? Wrong! Couldn’t find it after being in at least five different fabric stores in Walthamstow.

This is the original “lace trim blouse”. You can get the pattern at burdastyle.

No white fabric, no lace trim! But I came across this cute Panda chiffon I couldn’t resist.

I basically, used the pattern as it was, ignoring the lace trims and using baby seams as seam finish. I’ll explain how to make baby seams in my next post!

The only problem I had with the pattern (or rather the chiffon fabric) was that the fabric pieces of the sleeves did not quite fit together at the edge. Look at this mess (and the cute pandas)!Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

After nagging at this for a while, I just trimmed off the excess fabric, widening the neckline a bit.

I love how versatile this version of the Burda blouse is! I tried to style it in different ways – let the pictures speak for themselves!

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The classic sheer look! With the high-cut neckline and the cuteness of the pandas this isn’t too bold.

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Also looks great with a belt!

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Or all tied up!
Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.comBurda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

It’s super comfy and perfect for summer evenings!

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.comI used 7mm elastic for the sleeves and at the waist in the front and back as well as 9 small buttons. I decided to use light pink thread instead of dark blue, to match the panda ears and to make the blouse look a bit more interesting.

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

For the button fasteing I made small loops out of the same fabric and sewed them on between the front edge and the facing strip/binding. Sewing on the buttons wasn’t too much fun when I want to finally get done! 🙂

Burda #128 8/2012 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I love how easy it was to tweak the original pattern just a bit to make it look so different! Sometimes using fabric which is totally different from the one suggested can bring about awesome results. Just make sure you choose a fabric that is of about the same weight.

But be careful! If the pattern says you should use stretch fabric like knits or jersey, you really should. The fit of the garment is different when using pattern made for stretch fabrics. You might end up sewing a garment that is way too tight. When using non-stretch fabrics you will most often have to add a zipper or some other fastening. Keep that it mind when choosing a fabric for your pattern!