Lottie Blouse hacked into a Dress with a Doggie Print

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comLottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

A DRESS & A DOG

Apparently, it was National Dog Day yesterday. Perfect timing to show off the Scottie Dog Dress I made a little while ago. Our little doggie was kind enough to star as my fashionable accessory. He actually looks a bit like the dogs on the fabric’s print. A cute dress paired with a cute dog – could I wish for more?

The Fabric:

I bought the fabric ages ago in Walthamstow, London. For those of you who know the area, it’s the last fabric shop on the left side of the road, when you walk down the market coming from Walthamstow Station. I don’t remember the name of the shop, but it’s near Saeed’s Fabrics. It’s a tiny shop with loads of cheap polyester, chiffon and jersey fabrics. It’s perfect if you’re looking for fun prints but don’t want to spend a lot of money.

I usually use these kinds of fabric for wearable muslins and experimental projects, where everything can go wrong (but it doesn’t have to!) and you want to use fabric you won’t cry for later. And it’s acutally cheaper than proper cotton muslin fabric!

The doggie print is a £1/m polyester fabric. It’s easy to cut and sew, but you have to be careful when pressing it. It melts (and darkens) easily. Press on a low temperature using a pressing cloth! It has quite a bit of stand and doesn’t drape too well as you can see around the waist line. It adds quite a bit of volume! I also bought the same fabric in black with tiny elephants, which I used for my first Lottie Blouse.

The white, slightly sheer fabric is also a polyester which I bought on Goldhawk Road, London. I used this fabric before, for my first Lottie hack.

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern:

The pattern is – what a surprise – the Lottie Blouse pattern from Love Sewing Magazine which I have hacked into a dress with a contrasting yoke. I’ve made the blouse loads of times using different hacks and fabrics each time (here, here, here & here). I won’t say much about the pattern, as I have reviewed it before. Check out the other posts if you want to know more about it!

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Construction & Alterations:

I more or less kept the blouse except for slashing the front and back bodice pattern to add a seamline for the contrasting yoke. This is pretty simple: you slash the pattern where you want the new seamline to be and add seam allowance to the new edges. I pressed the seam allowance downwards so you can’t see it throught the sheer white fabric. It’s topstitched into place with white contrasting thread.

I lengthened the blouse to knee-length, keeping the waist fairly straight and curving out and in a bit at the hips and knees. Again, I slashed the pattern to add the contrast panel at the hem.

To add some shape and get the cinched waist look I wanted, I added some elastic which I sewed directly onto the fabric (no casing!) using a large zigzag stitch. The elastic was sewn on slightly below the natural waist so that it pulls the skirt up and adds some more volume to the bodice. This look is super comfortable and perfect if you’re having a large meal out! 🙂

I’ve kept the bodice and skirt slightly larger than my usual size. The polyester fabric is very lightweight and nice for warmer days, but it’s not as comfy as cotton on hot summer days, so it’s better to leave a lot of ease.

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com
Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Lottie Dress by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I’m not sure why I keep using this pattern again and again. It’s quite versatile and comes together super quickly (which is probably why). Who doesn’t love quick projects for when you have too little time to sew?

What’s the pattern you have used most often?

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!

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Burda Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 – Tilda Fabric

Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 by thisblogisnotforyou.comHelloooo my lovelies!

I’m back in Germany! It’s still kinda weird and doesn’t feel real at all at the moment but we’ll get there. I’ve got quite a few projects lined up to be blogged (sewn pre-move) so at least I don’t have to panic blog-wise. And I’ve got my little sewing corner set up with a tiny selection of fabrics for some serious stash-busting action. (I already bought fabric here, oh no!)

Just before we moved we had family visiting, including my adorable little niece, who was about ten months then. Obviously I  couldn’t contain myself and had to sew a couple of things here and there. I browsed through my Burdastyle stash – always reliable! – and found some really cute baby patterns. You can find most of them online as well.

I decided to use up some gorgeous Tilda fabric that I had left from a previous project I did in collaboration with White Tree Fabrics (there’s a new project in the making, but with reduced resources at the moment it takes a while!) Sewing for babies is always great for using up fabric scraps as well! I literally squeezed this one out of the leftovers I had.

Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

The pattern is Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 – a very cute baby dress all complete with patch pockets and a gathered yoke. The dress has long sleeves and buttons up the back. (Check out my pattern matching at the patch pockets, yo! It wasn’t even intentional, but it still makes me happy seeing those pictures!)

The dress came together quite easily. Sewing with the Tilda cotton was a breeze! Apart from the buttons, everything was sewn on the machine. I took quite a while though. Although it is tiny and comes together quicker than a normal grown-up-sized dress, it still took me almost a whole day to finish.

source: burdastyle.com

Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 by thisblogisnotforyou.comAnd here’s the even cuter back! I made self-covered buttons (12mm) and sew all the buttonholes with my buttonhole foot and my 4-step-sewing machine setting (15mm wide buttonholes). These buttons make me smile!Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe dress fits beautifully and the little munchkin looks absolutely stunning in it (you can tell that she knows that, too!)

Burdastyle Baby Dress 09/2013 #147 by thisblogisnotforyou.com

Will I make it again? The pattern is great as a basis for all sorts of outfits – blouses and summer as well as winter dresses. Unfortunately, babies grow fast and by the time I feel like making it again I would have to trace it again for a bigger size. So, no, at the moment I don’t have plans to sew the exact same dress again, but I’ll keep the traced pattern – just in case 🙂

xx

Charlie


Happy sewing!

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Little Black Dress and Comfy Cardi

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comHello lovelies! Guess what? I’ve got a new favourite outfit (again).

I have to admit, not much planning went into this. The cardi was on the bottom of a to-do-list in the back of my head, for when I would run out of ideas (ha!) and the idea for the dress was born in the second I saw that fabric. Buying the fabric, making a sketch and a pattern and sewing the dress all happened on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Although I have millions of projects on my to-sew list I always end up with these spontaneous projects! Most often these end up to be my favourite garments, though.
LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comTHE CARDIGAN

The Fabric: Those of you who have been following this blog for a while (and have an incredible memory) might recognise this fabric. It’s a really stretchy, loose wool knit. I got it from Minerva Crafts and initially wanted to use it for a Donna Karan Vogue Pattern, which never happened. Instead, I made this super cosy cowl dress. The Burda Cowl Neck dress pattern didn’t require as much fabric as the Vogue dress, so I had plenty left. I always had a cardigan in mind for it but couldn’t find a pattern I liked. As a knit fabric, it didn’t really fray much, but I overlocked all edges anyway.

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comI hemmed the sleeve by simply overlocking the raw edge, turning it in and top-stitching it in place with a narrow zig-zag stitch. All the other edges – bottom hem, neckline and front – are one continuous line I wanted to bias bind initially. Mid-way through the project I remembered that I had bought lots of stringed sequins a while ago. So instead of bias binding, I finished the edge with my overlocker, not turning it in. I sewed the sequins in place along the stitching of the overlocker.

I really like the finish as it adds to the lightness of the slightly sheer fabric. Also, no one minds some extra bling, right?
LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern: The cardi pattern is completely self-drafted – with a cardigan in mind that my sister bought when she last visited me in London (I think she got it from Primark). I took some rough measurements in order to recreate it at some point. I found the sketch a little while ago and thought of it when I was looking for a quick and easy project last week. The drafting didn’t take too long. With the very loose fit I was going for the measurements didn’t  have to be exact. The fabric was cut out quickly and the actual sewing did not take much longer. Applying the sequins probably took as long as the whole drafting and sewing process together. I didn’t mind – given that I have the time for it, I find hand-sewing so relaxing!

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comTHE DRESS

The Fabric: Now let’s talk about the dress! As far as I can remember, it’s the first LBD I made and it’s very likely that many others will follow! The day I spotted this fab jumbo ribbed jersey, I initially wanted to buy some zips from my local fabric store. I never really buy fabric there, it’s a really dodgy shop that mostly sells waxed table cloth stuff and trims. I spotted the fabric and a vision of this dress came to mind immediately. It was 60 inch wide and only £1.50/m. I bought 2m and started planning as soon as I came home.

The sleeves and waistband are from a recycled cardigan which I got from my mum-in-law. It’s quite a heavy knit. Looking at the label it must have been from some sort of boutique and appeared to be really good quality – even after all those times in the washing machine the fabric looks as good as new. The sleeves were big enough that I could squeeze both sleeves and waistband out of them. I kept the hem, which was really convenient and made the sewing process so much quicker!

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe Pattern: It’s a proper Franken-Dress – the pattern is part Lady Skater (Kitschy Coo), part Ultimate Pencil Skirt (Sew Over It) and part self-drafted.

I started of with the Lady Skater bodice, which is a TNT for me when it comes to dress patterns for knit fabrics. I lowered the neckline to a boat neck shape. These is no need for a shoulder seam on this one! Sewing front and back onto the sleeves was a bit tricky as the corners had to match up exactly at the shoulder mark on the sleeves, but it worked out fantastically.The sleeve pattern is from the  Lady Skater, as well.LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe skirt pattern is based on my beloved Ultimate Pencil Skirt. I lowered the high waist down to my natural waist and then had to do a lot of thinking in order to get the waistband right. I shortened the bodice quite a bit and added a 5cm wide waistband between bodice and skirt. Instead of going with the darts from the original skirt pattern, I turned them into pleats to give the skirt a bit more volume. I know this is a bit risky, especially when you normally don’t want to attract too much attention to this area, but I put all my trust in the Elisalex once and it worked out fabulously, so I tried it again. I really like the shape and don’t think that it makes me look much bigger than I am!LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comAll raw edges were finished using my overlocker. When using Jersey I sometimes sew all seams with the overlocker straight away because it is so much faster than my old little sewing machine. Because the dress’ fit is quite snug I thought some extra strong seams were quite a good idea and sewed all seams using a narrow zig-zag stitch before running the raw edges through the overlocker. Also, I needed to do quite a bit of matching with the sleeves and also with the pleats, which is so much easier on my regular machine.LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comThe facing is also cut out from the recycled cardi and interfaced with black iron-on interfacing.The facing is quite wide and attached to neckline and armhole seams, so the bodice is almost half-lined. It makes the facing lie really flat so that it’s practically invisible.

The skirt hem is turned under once and hand-stitched in place.

LBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.comLBD and Cardi by thisblogisnotforyou.com

I really really love both dress and cardi and love wearing both together. They’re both super comfy and warm which is the perfect combination right now! I have quite a bit of the jumbo ribbed jersey left and am planning a kimono sleeve cropped sweater – let’s see how that goes!


Happy sewing!

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